Premium Light Kit for the LEGO Disney Tim Burton's The Nightmare Before Christmas (#21351)

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If you view this guide in the Dozuki app, search for "Brickstuff" the first time you open the app, then select "Product Guides" from the categories listed under Brickstuff. Scroll down to find this guide.

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The box for your light kit has three bags, each clearly labeled-- see the photos for this step to see what each bag should look like.

Your kit should also contain two power supplies:

One 3xAAA battery pack (shown in the first photo for this step).

One USB cable (shown in the second photo for this step).

You can use either power supply to power your light kit. The USB cable requires a USB power adapter with standard Type A output.

Powering your kit with the battery pack will provide approximately six hours of continuous operation on one set of AAA batteries. Using rechargeable batteries is not recommended.

The last items in your kit box will be the two plastic "moon frames"-- these are used with the LED light strip provided to create either an illuminated full moon or crescent moon.

The "full moon" frame is shown in the first photo for this step.

The "crescent moon" frame is shown in the second photo for this step.

You can set up your light kit using either frame, and you can change frames at any time.

You will begin by installing lights in the moon section of the LEGO set.

Unpack the contents of Bag 1. The second photo for this step shows the smaller bags that are inside Bag 1.

Installing this light kit will also require the use of some spare parts from your LEGO set. Please make sure you have those parts handy before proceeding with the light kit installation.

As shown in the photos for this step, remove the paper moon, then remove the front of the large black wave assembly.

The third photo for this step shows the wave with its front section removed.

As shown in the first and second photos for this step, remove the two 1x4 black tiles from the base of the wave.

As shown by the orange arrow in the third photo for this step, re-attach one of the two tiles you removed into the center of the opening, leaving two studs open on either side.

First you will install the small, flexible white LED light illuminating Zero's grave.

As shown in the photos for this step, remove the roof and center section of the grave.

As shown in the first photo for this step, open the small pink bag with the orange dot sticker.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo for this step, you will be using the LED light with the long black stem.

As shown by the red circle in the third photo, the top of the LED light has a very small yellow rectangle. This is the light itself.

As shown by the first photo for this step, align the LED light facing upward along the center of the grave.

Re-attach Zero's nameplate, as shown in the second photo.

It is ok to press plates on top of the flexible LED light.

As shown by the green line in the second photo, make sure to leave enough space for the light to extend beyond Zero's nameplate once re-attached.

Re-attach the white 1x1 plate as shown in the third photo. Double-check to make sure the LED light extends far enough to shine up onto Zero's nameplate.

As shown in the photos for this step, re-attach the roof sections of Zero's grave.

As shown by the green arrows in the second photo for this step, you can gently bend the light upward if needed so it shines onto the nameplate.

Next you will connect the wire for the LED light to the BRANCH06X driver board, which is contained in a small pink bag inside the larger Bag 1.

As shown by the orange arrows in the first photo for this step, pass the LED light wire under the wave assembly.

The second photo for this step shows the LED light wire pulled through to the back.

Remove the BRANCH06X driver board from its bag, and connect the LED light wire to plug #6 as shown by the blue arrow in the third photo.

In order for the lighting effects in your kit to function properly, you need to make sure to connect them to the specific plug numbers shown in these instructions.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the front pumpkin and its orange flower plate from the base.

As shown in the second photo for this step, separate the pumpkin from its flower plate.

As shown in the third photo for this step, take one of the two remaining LED lights from the bag with the orange dot and center it on the flower plate with its light element facing upward.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the pumpkin to its flower base.

Make sure the LED light wire is coming out the back side of the pumpkin as shown.

As shown in the second photo for this step, re-attach the pumpkin in its original location.

As shown in the first and second photos for this step, remove the large "RIP" gravestone to make room to run the LED light wire. Re-attach the gravestone on top of the wire.

Continue running the light wire toward the back as shown in the third photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the back pumpkin from its green flower plate.

As shown in the second photo, place the remaining LED light from the orange dot bag on top of the green flower plate.

As shown in the third photo, re-attach the pumpkin on top of the LED light and green flower plate.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the HENBANE tombstone.

As shown in the second photo for this step, route both LED light wires toward the back.

As shown in the third photo for this step, re-attach the HENBANE tombstone so it sits on top of the LED Light wires.

As shown by the orange arrows in the first photo for this step, pass the two pumpkin light wires under the gap in the wave base.

The second photo shows both wires pulled through to the back side.

As shown by the arrows in the third photo for this step, connect the pumpkin LED lights to plugs #1 and #2 on the BRANCH06X driver board.

Next you will prepare the three yellow LED lights inside the small bag with the yellow dot.

As shown in the photos for this step, remove the sheet of small sticky dots from the small Sticky Dots/Squares bag (provided inside Bag 1), and attach one dot each to the back side of the yellow LED lights.

As shown in the photos for this step, remove the WITCH HAZEL tombstone and remove the tile and slopes on the back side of the tombstone.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the back of the sticky dot and stick the first yellow light to the top of the backside of the tombstone. Make sure the light is mounted with its wire passing downward.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the second photo for this step, run the light wire down the back of the tombstone and between the two studs on the plate.

Make sure to leave a little extra wire so the wires don't get pinched when you re-attach the plate and slopes.

As shown in the third photo for this step, re-attach the plate and slopes to the back of the tombstone.

Re-attach the WITCH HAZEL tombstone as shown in the photo for this step, with its LED light wire passing toward the back.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the large R.I.P. tombstone to make room to run the LED light wire.

The green circle in the second photo shows a 1x1 round plate mounted to raise the R.I.P. tombstone a little to allow the LED light wire to pass underneath. This plate was taken from the spare LEGO parts from the original set-- this part is not included with your light kit. You can use any 1x1 piece from your own spare set parts.

As shown in the second photo, route the LED light wire to the left of the 1x1 plate and pass it toward the back.

As shown in the third photo for this step, re-attach the R.I.P. tombstone.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, pass the yellow LED light wire under the gap in the wave.

The second photo for this step shows the LED light wire pulled through to the back side.

As shown by the arrow in the third photo for this step, connect the first yellow LED light to plug #3 on the BRANCH06X driver board.

The LEGO parts for this step are taken from the extra parts provided in your original LEGO set. They are not included with your light kit.

As shown in the first two photos for this step, take two parts from the spares from your original LEGO set and create an angled mount for the second yellow LED light.

You can use any 1x1 plate and 1x1 slope from the spare parts from your LEGO set.

As shown in the third photo for this step, remove the back from the second sticky dot and attach the yellow LED to the slope piece.

As shown in the first photo, attach the second yellow LED light near the HENBANE tombstone and the rear lighted pumpkin, with the light facing back and on an angle as shown by the green arrows.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the 1x2 tombstone behind the LED Light and pass the light wires between the studs under the tombstone.

As shown in the third photo for this step, re-attach the 1x2 tombstone, holding the LED light wires in place.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, pass the LED light wire back and under the wave frame.

The second photo for this step shows the LED light wire pulled all the way through to the back.

As shown by the arrow in the third photo for this step, connect the LED light wire to plug #4 on the BRANCH06X driver board.

The LEGO part for this step is taken from the extra parts provided in your original LEGO set. It is not included with your light kit.

As shown in the photos for this step, take a 1x1 slope part from the extra parts from your LEGO set and attach the third yellow LED light to the slope with its wires facing downward.

As shown in the first photo for this step, attach the third yellow LED Light to the base behind Zero's grave, positioned facing forward at an angle as shown by the green arrows.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the second photo for this step, pass the LED light wires back and under the wave frame.

As shown by the arrow in the third photo for this step, connect the LED light to the last open plug on the BRANCH06X driver board (plug #5).

The yellow circles in the photos for this step show the positions for the three yellow LED lights.

The green arrows in the second photo show the directions each LED is pointing.

These positions are only suggestions-- you can experiment with the positions and angles yourself to get the optimal lighting effect once the kit is powered up.

Next, you will organize the wires and re-attach the front of the wave assembly.

As shown by the orange circles in the first photo for this step, gather the LED light wires into two groups, and make sure each group is aligned with one of the two-stud gaps under the frame.

Aligning the wires with the gaps on either side of the 1x4 black tile will make it easier to re-attach the wave frame front.

As shown in the second photo for this step, re-attach the front of the wave assembly.

Depending on the position of the LED light wires, you may need to press down slightly on the front of the wave assembly to get the section to re-attach.

The third photo for this step shows the wave section re-assembled, with LED light wires passing underneath and out the back side.

This next section is optional, but is provided in case you want to hide the excess LED light wires inside the back frame.

Carefully remove the large slope and hinge section as shown by the green arrows in the first photo for this step.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the 1x1 black slope part to make more room for wires. The red arrow in the photo shows the location from which to remove the slope part.

As shown in the third photo for this step, separate the hinge base from the top slope section.

As shown in the first photo for this step, coil up the excess LED light wires into the space behind the front frame.

As shown by the yellow circle in the second photo for this step, re-attach the hinge base and finish coiling up excess wire.

As shown in the first photo for this step, carefully re-attach the wave top slope section to the hinge.

Be careful not to pinch any wires inside the hinge!

As shown in the third photo for this step, make sure the top of the wave can sit flush (yellow circle) and that there is enough extra wire to allow the BRANCH06X driver board to sit flush to the back side of the frame (green arrow).

If the top of the wave won't sit flush, you can re-arrange the wires underneath, making them tighter and more compact, until the top of the wave sits flush.

Next, you will connect the BRANCH06X driver board to the main lighting effect controller.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the main lighting effect controller and 3-wire connecting cable (with red/white/black wires) from the small pink bag that was included inside Bag 1 of your light kit.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo for this step, connect one end of the 3-wire connecting cable to the PIXEL1 plug on the main lighting effect controller.

In order for your light kit to operate correctly, it is important to connect the BRANCH06X driver board to the PIXEL1 connector on the main effect controller.

As shown by the arrow in the third photo for this step, connect the other end of the 3-wire connecting cable to the INPUT plug on the BRANCH06X driver board. Do not connect the wire to the OUTPUT plug on the BRANCH06X-- leave the OUTPUT plug open for now.

In order for the lights to function, wires must be connected to the BRANCH06X driver board as shown.

Next, you will test the lights you just finished connecting.

You can test using either the 3xAAA battery pack or USB cable. The photos here show using the battery pack.

As shown in the first photo, add three fresh AAA batteries to the battery pack, make sure the switch is in the OFF position, and connect to the small "POWER IN" plug on the main lighting effect controller.

The blue arrow in the second photo shows the battery pack connected to the small "POWER IN" plug on the main lighting effect controller.

The red arrow in the second photo shows the larger "POWER IN" plug on the main lighting effect controller. If you are testing using the USB cable, connect that plug here.

Use either the battery pack or USB cable-- do not use both at the same time!

The video in this step shows how the connected lights flash once when power is turned on.

Turn on your power and verify that the lights you connected all flash once.

Some lights will turn off after flashing once-- this is just the normal operation of the main lighting effect controller (randomly turning lights on and off).

After you have verified the lights do flash when power is turned on, you can turn the power off again.

If any lights do not flash:

Double-check the light connections to the BRANCH06X driver board.

Make sure the small green power LED lights on both the main lighting effect controller and the BRANCH06X driver board turn on when power is on.

Make sure you have the 3-wire connecting cable connected to the INPUT plug on the BRANCH06X, not the OUTPUT plug. (the power LED light on the BRANCH06X will turn on even if the 3-wire cable is connected to the OUTPUT plug, so this can be hard to troubleshoot)

Next you will mount the included LED light strip inside either the full moon or crescent moon frames included with your light kit.

You can mount the strip in either frame, and you can switch frames at any time after assembly.

As shown in the second and third photos for this step, remove the light strip from its pink bag (this was provided inside Bag 1 of your light kit).

This step shows the mounting of the light strip into the full moon frame. If you plan to mount the light strip into the crescent moon frame, skip to the next step.

As shown by the green arrow in the first photo for this step, there is a notch in the plastic frame. This is the location of the bottom of the frame. Begin mounting the light strip with the wire extending through this notch.

Your light strip has a self-adhesive backing, covered by a brown strip. You don't need to remove the strip or use the adhesive to mount the light strip inside the frame. By not using the adhesive, you can make it easier to switch to the crescent moon frame later.

As shown in the second photo for this step, place the strip around the inside edge of the moon frame. Make sure the white part of the strip is facing inward toward the middle of the circle as shown in the photo.

The third photo for this step shows the finished strip mounted inside the full moon frame, with the wire extending through the notch in the bottom of the frame.

This step shows the mounting of the light strip into the crescent moon frame. If you mounted the light strip into the full moon frame, you can skip ahead two steps.

As shown by the green arrows in the first photo for this step, you'll need to fold the wire for the LED strip underneath the strip to mount.

As shown by the orange arrow in the second photo for this step, begin by inserting the LED strip into the bottom of the frame with the wire passing through the notch at the bottom edge.

As shown in the third photo for this step, carefully bend the LED strip back onto itself and begin routing it along the inside of the crescent moon cutout.

As shown in the photos for this step, continue routing the LED strip along the inside of the crescent moon frame with the LED portion of the strip (the white part) facing inward toward the exposed area of the frame.

As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully bend the strip back on itself for the top fold, then along the round edge.

The third photo for this step shows the completed strip mounted inside the crescent moon frame.

Mounting the strip inside the crescent frame is more difficult than mounting inside the full moon frame, so take your time, and realize that getting the mounting "right" might take several tries. When bending the strip, it may tend to pop out of the frame, but you can coax it back into place.

The photos in this step show the full moon frame, but the process for attaching the paper moon is the same for the crescent moon frame.

The red arrows in the first photo for this step show the LEGO printing on the back side of the paper moon. Align this printing with the bottom of your frame, and carefully run your fingers around the outside of the frame to snap the paper into the frame on top of the light strip.

The frames are designed with just enough room for the light strip and the paper moon to press into place. If any sections of your light strip pop out of place while pressing the paper moon into position, you can re-position the strip and try again.

The third photo for this step shows the bottom of the moon frame with the LED strip in place and the paper moon pressed into position.

There should be enough friction to hold both the LED strip and the paper moon in place inside the frame while attached to your LEGO set.

The green square in the first photo for this step shows the LEGO mounting pin re-inserted through the center of the paper moon. Hold the moon by this pin and insert back into the round plate on the back side of the wave to re-attach the moon, frame, and LED strip.

If you are using the crescent moon frame, you may need to remove the round 1x1 plate on the back side of the moon (this is the part closest to the round end of the pin) in order for the frame to re-attach to the wave.

As shown in the second photo for this step, position the moon so the bottom notch and wire are aligned to the brown clip and green plant part.

As shown by the orange arrows in the third photo for this step, you can wrap the LED strip wire around the brown clip behind the plant part to help hold the moon in place.

If you are using the crescent moon frame, wrapping the wire around the brown clip is essential, as the weight of the frame will tend to pull the moon into a position where the crescent it not at a vertical angle. Attaching it in place by securing the wire will keep it aligned.

As shown in the photo for this step, you connect the wire for the LED strip to the PIXEL2 plug on the main lighting effect controller.

The next step will verify that the moon LED lights are working correctly.

For this step, re-connect power to the main lighting effect controller and turn power on.

As shown in the video, when power is turned on, the moon lights should flash once, then the other lights in the set will flash, and finally the moon lights should turn on again and remain on.

If you see the same result as in the video, congratulations! You have finished installing lights into the first section of your LEGO set.

If your moon lights do not turn on as in the test video, double-check your connections, and make sure the light strip wire is connected to the PIXEL2 plug on the main lighting effect controller.

Next, you will install lights in Jack's House.

Unpack the contents of Bag 2. The second photo for this step shows the smaller bags that are inside Bag 2.

As shown in the third photo for this step, you'll also need the "Brick Parts" bag (which was contained in the larger Bag 1 of your light kit).

Installing this light kit will also require the use of some spare parts from your LEGO set. Please make sure you have those parts handy before proceeding with the light kit installation.

The photo for this step shows the brick parts you will need for Jack's House.

The photos for this step show how to use the five Light Bluish Gray parts from your "Brick Parts" bag to construct a support base for the wires.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the two 1x1 slopes from underneath the rock arches from Jack's House.

As shown in the second photo for this step, attach the two 1x1 slopes to the ends of the 1x4 plates of your wire support base.

As shown in the third photo for this step, attach the wire support base in the same location from which you removed the two 1x1 slopes.

You will use this base as a frame around which to wind excess LED light wires.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the BRANCH06X driver board and its 3-wire connecting cable from the small pink bag included in Bag 2 of your light kit.

As shown by the arrow in the second photo for this step, connect one end of the 3-wire cable to the INPUT plug of the BRANCH06X driver board.

In order for your kit to function properly, do not connect the wire to the OUTPUT plug.

The LEGO parts for this step are taken from the extra parts provided in your original LEGO set. They are not included with your light kit.

As shown in the two photos for this step, take four parts from the spares from your original LEGO set and create two angled mounts for two LED lights.

You can use any two 1x1 plates and 1x1 slopes from the spare parts from your LEGO set.

Assemble the four pieces into two light supports as shown in the second photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, take the two green LED lights from the bag with the green dot.

As shown in the second and third photos for this step, take two small sticky discs and attach them to the back of the two green LED lights.

As shown in the photo for this step, remove the backs of the sticky discs and attach the LED lights to the two slopes with their wires facing downward.

As shown by the orange circle in the first photo for this step, mount the first green LED light just inside the gate to Jack's house.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo for this step, position the slope so the LED light shines up toward Jack's house.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the third photo for this step, run the LED light wire backward and thread it below the plant leaf part under the pumpkin and at the back to hold the wire in place.

As shown in the first photo for this step, pass the LED light wire through the hole in the base you built earlier.

As shown by the arrow in the second photo for this step, connect the first green LED light to plug #6 on the BRANCH06X driver board.

In order for the lighting effects in your kit to function properly, you need to make sure to connect them to the specific plug numbers shown in these instructions.

As shown by the orange circle and arrow in the first photo for this step, mount the second green LED light just in front of the tree next to Jack's house, and position the LED light so it shines up toward the tree.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the second photo for this step, remove the 1x2 slope behind the tree and run the green LED light wire toward the back, using the hinge of the tree to hold the wire in place.

Re-attach the 1x2 slope piece, making sure the LED light wires pass between, not on top of, any studs.

As shown in the third photo for this step, wrap the LED light wire several times around the frame you built earlier (the photo shows the top 1x4 brick removed to make winding easier).

As shown by the arrow in the photo for this step, connect the second green LED light to plug #5 on the BRANCH06X driver board.

This photo shows the 1x4 brick re-attached to the top of the wire frame, holding the wires in place.

As shown in the first and second photos for this step, remove the roof sections from Jack's house.

As shown in the third photo, remove the second floor of the house.

Next, you will mount the yellow LED light above the door to Jack's house.

As shown in the first photo for this step, open the small pink bag with the yellow dot.

Take one of the round transparent 1x1 plates you removed from the "Brick Parts" bag earlier, and feed the LED light wire through the larger hole.

Also as shown in the second photo, carefully bend the LED light so it sits at a 90-degree angle from its wire.

As shown in the third photo for this step, pull the wire back until the LED light sits completely inside the round transparent plate.

As shown in the two photos for this step, press the yellow LED light and round transparent plate into the center antistud in the first row facing the front of Jack's house.

The plate and LED will have a tendency to pop out. To solve this, you can pre-bend the LED wires, or you can un-twist them at the LED light base so the wires are flat (not twisted).

Next, you will prepare the warm white attic light, which is the same flexible LED material as the light you used earlier for Zero's grave.

As shown in the first and second photos for this step, open the small pink bag with the orange dot and take out the warm white LED lights.

There are three different types of lights in this bag:

One spotlight with its light pre-mounted inside LEGO parts.

One Pico LED light with shorter wire.

One flexible LED light with long wire.

As shown in the third photo for this step, you will begin with the flexible LED light with long cable.

As shown in the photos for this step, remove the front and back roof slope sections above the cross-beam (the part with the wreaths), then remove the two cross-beam sections as well.

As shown in the photo for this step, remove the transparent yellow attic window.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove one of the top 1x2 transparent yellow plates from the top of the window.

As shown by the orange arrows in the second photo for this step, mount the flexible LED light with its light element facing DOWN. Make sure to position the light element so it is centered on top of the window, with the black strip between the two studs.

As shown by the blue arrow in the second photo, make sure to position the LED light while the flat part (the front) of the window element is facing your hand. The wires for the light should extend out beyond the front of the window.

As shown in the third photo for this step, carefully re-attach the top 1x2 transparent yellow plate to the window top. This should hold the flexible LED light in place.

As shown by the orange arrows in the photo for this step, turn the window around and then carefully bend the LED light wires back over the top of the window.

Re-attach the window to the attic of Jack's house.

As shown in the first photo for this step, replace the first attic cross-beam.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the second photo for this step, run the LED Light wire toward the back, looping it up and over the top of the cross-beam.

As shown in the first photo for this step, replace the second roof cross-beam, making sure the LED light wire passes up and between the beams as shown by the red circle in the second photo.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, loop the LED light wire around the beams 1.5 times, so the wire passes under the beams and toward the back edge.

As shown by the green circle in the second photo for this step, carefully pull the LED light wire between the light bluish gray bracket and the rear roof frame.

Be careful not to pull the wire too tightly, or it can tear.

As shown in the photos for this step, re-assemble the rooftop section of Jack's house.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the blackboard assembly from Jack's house.

As shown in the second and third photos for this step, gently press with your finger on the side of the house (behind where the blackboard was mounted) so the side of the house tilts outward.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first and second photos for this step, pass the LED light wire through the open wall, underneath Jack's desk and out the back side of the house.

The LEGO part for this step is taken from the extra parts provided in your original LEGO set. It is not included with your light kit.

As shown in the first photo for this step, take a 1x1 plate from the extra parts from your LEGO set.

As shown in the second photo for this step, attach the 1x1 plate to the lower stud of the spotlight included with your light kit.

Attach the light to the center back of the blackboard as shown in the third photo for this step.

You can adjust the spotlight up or down to get the desired amount of light in Jack's office.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, pass the light wire for the blackboard light back behind the desk and out the wall opening behind the desk.

As shown in the second photo for this step, re-attach the blackboard to the desk.

As shown in the first photo for this step, pass the light wire for the blackboard light back under the desk and out through the back of the house as shown in the second photo.

As shown by the yellow circle in the first photo for this step, orient the attic light wire to the corner of the wall opening, then as shown by the red arrows, press the wall section until it snaps back into place.

The green arrow in the second photo for this step shows how the attic light wire should look after snapping the wall section back into place.

The third photo for this step shows the light wires you should now have hanging from the bottom of the second floor:

The orange circle shows the light wire for the yellow front door light.

The green circle shows the light wire for the blackboard light.

The blue circle shows the light wire for the attic light.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, pass the light wire for the yellow front door light down through the center of the house's first floor.

Re-attach the second floor to the house as shown in the second photo for this step.

Because the light wire for the front door light now passes through the house, the clutch power for the studs holding the second floor in place will be slightly weaker than they were before. Be careful when lifting or moving Jack's house so the second floor doesn't come loose and pull the wires.

As shown by the green arrows in the third photo for this step, you should now have the light wires for the second-floor lights passing to the back side of the house.

The light wire for the yellow front door light will pass through the interior of the house.

The light wires for the blackboard and attic lights will pass directly out the back of the second floor.

As shown by the yellow arrow in the first photo for this step, connect the wire for the yellow front door light to plug #2 in the BRANCH06X driver board.

As shown in the first photo for this step, you will have two light wires remaining. One of them will be longer than the other. The longer wire is the attic light wire.

Because the attic light wire is long, you can wrap it several times around the wire base you built earlier, as shown by the yellow arrows in the second photo for this step.

The second photo shows the light bluish gray 1x4 brick removed from the top of the wire base-- this makes it easier to wrap the wire.

As shown by the arrow in the third photo for this step, connect the attic light to plug #4 on the BRANCH06X driver board.

The third photo shows the 1x4 light bluish gray brick re-attached to the top of the wire base to hold wires in place.

As shown in the first and second photos for this step, take the light wire for the blackboard light and connect it to plug #3 on the BRANCH06X driver board.

As shown by the green circle in the photo for this step, make sure the two second-floor light wires pass through the side of the back plate in Jack's house. This will ensure the wires cannot be seen through the front door.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the Christmas tree.

As shown in the second photo, remove the gold star from the top of the tree.

For this step, you will use the two remaining parts you took out of the "Brick Parts" bag earlier: the round 1x1 transparent plate with hole and a transparent yellow star.

As shown in the second photo for this step, take the last remaining LED light from the bag with the orange dot and pass its wires through the hole in the 1x1 round transparent plate.

As shown in the second photo, gently bend the LED light board so it sits perpendicular to its wire.

As shown in the first photo for this step, pull the light wire back through the transparent plate until the LED light sits directly on the stud.

As shown in the second photo for this step, press the transparent yellow star on top of the LED light and on top of the transparent plate. This will hold the LED light in place.

As shown in the first photo for this step, press the star light assembly back onto the top of the tree.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the second photo for this step, route the light wire down through the tree, using the flower plates on the branches to help hold the wire in place.

As shown by the green arrows in the third photo for this step, route the light wire underneath the round tree base plate, and then re-attach the tree to the floor of Jack's house.

The photo shows the tree re-attached one plate farther back than in the original build. This is done to allow more of the star light to be seen when looking through the front door.

Make sure the LED light wire passes beneath the tree's round base tile-- this will hold the wire in place.

As shown by the arrow in the photo for this step, connect the Christmas tree light to the last open plug (#1) on the BRANCH06X driver board.

As shown in the photos for this step, take one of the large sticky squares included with your light kit and attach it to the back of Jack's house in the position shown in the second photo.

As shown in the photos for this step, attach the BRANCH06X driver board to the back side of Jack's house with the large sticky square.

For best results, mount the driver board with the INPUT/OUTPUT plugs pointing to the left as shown in the second photo.

Make sure no light wires are stuck to the sticky square before attaching the BRANCH06X driver board.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first and second photos for this step, route the 3-wire connecting cable plugged into the INPUT of the BRANCH06X driver board underneath the wire base you built and out toward the tree.

As shown in the third photo for this step, remove the tree to continue routing the 3-wire cable.

As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, route the 3-wire connecting cable around the tree's base hinge.

Replace the tree as shown in the second photo for this step.

Make sure not to pinch any wires in the hinge itself when re-attaching the tree.

After replacing the tree, your wire should look like the wire in the third photo for this step.

As shown in the photos for this step, re-attach the two roof sections of Jack's house.

Take the 3-wire connecting cable as shown in the first photo, and connect it to the OUTPUT plug of the BRANCH06X driver board on the back of the moon frame section.

The arrow in the second photo for this step shows the wire from Jack's house connected to the OUTPUT plug of the BRANCH06X board behind the moon section.

Your setup should now look like the connections in the third photo.

Connect your power source and turn on the power.

As shown in the video, you should see lights in Jack's house flash along with the lights in the moon section.

Some lights will turn off after flashing once-- this is just the normal operation of the main lighting effect controller (randomly turning lights on and off).

After you have verified the lights do flash when power is turned on, you can turn the power off again.

If any lights do not flash:

Double-check the light connections to the BRANCH06X driver board.

Make sure the small green power LED lights on the main lighting effect controller and on BOTH the BRANCH06X driver boards turn on when power is on.

Make sure you have the 3-wire connecting cable connected to the INPUT plug on the BRANCH06X behind Jack's house, not the OUTPUT plug. (the power LED light on the BRANCH06X will turn on even if the 3-wire cable is connected to the OUTPUT plug, so this can be hard to troubleshoot)

Next, you will install lights into the town hall.

Unpack the contents of Bag 3. The second photo for this step shows the smaller bags that are inside Bag 3.

The third photo for this step shows the dark bluish gray round 1x1 brick that should be the last remaining part provided in your "Brick Parts" bag. You'll need this part toward the end of the setup.

The photo for this step shows the LED strip for the fountain. This strip is divided into two segments: one longer segment (for the fountain base) and one short segment (for the flow coming out of the monster's mouth into the fountain).

Remove the light strip from its pink bag.

As shown in the first photo for this step, detach the monster statue from the fountain and set aside.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the front side piece from the fountain base.

As shown in the third photo for this step, remove the large round fountain base plate.

As shown in the photo for this step, remove two transparent bright green plates from the fountain base. These should the the two plates at the end of the circle closest to the large jewel piece as shown in the photo.

As shown in the first two photos for this step, pass the end of the light strip (the short segment) though the bottom center of the fountain base.

As shown in the second photo for this step, pull the light strip through the hole from the top until its end (where the wire connects) is flush with the hole opening.

As shown in the third photo for this step, re-attach the fountain base with the short light strip segment sticking up through the center hole in the base plate.

The arrows in the third photo show how the wire should be routed beneath the plate when you re-attach it.

As shown in the first photo for this step, begin routing the long section of the light strip around the inside edge of the fountain, making sure the white part of the strip is facing toward the center of the fountain.

As shown by the orange rectangle in the first photo, the two studs you uncovered by removing the two transparent round plates earlier should be at the middle of the fountain.

Continue routing the light strip around the rim of the fountain until it circles the fountain completely as shown.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the side piece you removed earlier.

As shown in the second photo for this step, tuck any excess wire into the base of the fountain and pass the long LED strip wire through the gap in parts at the back of the fountain.

The third photo for this step shows how the light strip wire should exit from the back of the fountain.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove one of the dark bluish gray angle plates from the base behind the fountain, and pass the fountain light wire between the studs on the base.

As shown in the second photo for this step, re-attach the plate on top of the wire to hold it in place.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the section with the bracket next to the town hall.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove two of the side slopes from the base of the town hall.

As shown in the third photo for this step, route the light strip wire along the bottom base of the town hall, making sure the wire passes beneath, not on top of, any studs.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the front side slope part to the town hall.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the rear base slope piece from the side of the town hall.

As shown in the third photo for this step, re-attach the middle slope side part to the town hall.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the rear slope part to the town hall. The light strip wire should now pass to the rear of the hall as shown.

Re-attach the section with the clip next to the town hall, as shown in the second and third photos.