Skip to main content

Introduction

PLEASE NOTE

This guide is a work in progress as of December 20, 2024. We plan to have it completed in the next several days, but until that time, there will be incomplete steps. You can follow along until the end and you won't miss anything-- just check back in a few days for the complete guide.

Tools

No tools specified.

  1. There are several ways to read this guide: Reading it on the web in your browser. Downloading a PDF copy of the guide. You can do this by selecting "Download PDF" as shown by the red rectangle in the first photo. Click on the Options heading in the upper right corner of the screen (see the green rectangle).
    • There are several ways to read this guide:

    • Reading it on the web in your browser.

    • Downloading a PDF copy of the guide. You can do this by selecting "Download PDF" as shown by the red rectangle in the first photo. Click on the Options heading in the upper right corner of the screen (see the green rectangle).

    • In the "Dozuki" application, which is available for download from the Apple App Store and various Android and Google marketplaces.

    • If you view this guide in the Dozuki app, search for "Brickstuff" the first time you open the app, then select "Product Guides" from the categories listed under Brickstuff. Scroll down to find this guide.

    • You can also translate this guide into another language when viewing on the web. To do this, install a translator extension into your browser and use that extension/plug-in to translate the page. Using the main Google translate website (translate.google.com) does not work.

  2. The photo for this step shows the main parts included with your Premium light kit.
    • The photo for this step shows the main parts included with your Premium light kit.

    • Note that this photo also shows the street lamp add-on kit, which is included in the main box with your other kit parts if you ordered this at the same time as your main kit.

    • The orange box shows the bag of sticky dots and the wire-routing tweezers.

    • The light blue box shows the three small boxes of parts for each section (bottom/middle/top) of your Eiffel Tower.

    • The red box shows the main controller with built-in Wi-Fi.

    • The dark blue box shows the two smaller boxes with the street lamp add-on kit included (for those who purchased this add-on at the same time as the main kit). If you did not order the street lamp add-on, these two boxes will not be present with your kit.

    • The yellow box shows the three bags of color-changing light strips.

    • The purple box shows the USB-C power adapter.

  3. If you purchased the street lamp add-on kit at the same time as your main light kit, your kit will include the two plastic boxes shown by the green rectangle in the photo for this step.
    • If you purchased the street lamp add-on kit at the same time as your main light kit, your kit will include the two plastic boxes shown by the green rectangle in the photo for this step.

    • You will install these street lamps after you have finished installing the main lights. The installation steps for this add-on kit are covered in a separate manual.

  4. Because of the large number of LED lights included with your Eiffel Tower kit, a special USB-C power adapter is provided.  To guarantee proper operation of your lights, you must use only this adapter to power your kit. For our international customers, we apologize that at this time we are only able to provide the power adapter with a U.S.-type power plug.  The adapter will work with any mains voltage, so customers needing a different plug type can purchase a simple converter plug.  Voltage conversion is not necessary.
    • Because of the large number of LED lights included with your Eiffel Tower kit, a special USB-C power adapter is provided. To guarantee proper operation of your lights, you must use only this adapter to power your kit.

    • For our international customers, we apologize that at this time we are only able to provide the power adapter with a U.S.-type power plug. The adapter will work with any mains voltage, so customers needing a different plug type can purchase a simple converter plug. Voltage conversion is not necessary.

    • If you experience any issues with your lights after installation, we cannot provide support unless you are using the power adapter provided with your kit.

    • As shown by the yellow box in the first photo for this step, the power adapter supplies 3 amps (3A) of power at 5 volts DC. This is higher than the standard USB power supply standard, which is why your kit will likely not operate if you use another USB power supply.

    • Your light kit also does not support USB-C "Power Delivery" (PD)-type supplies. If you attempt to use a PD supply instead of the supply we have provided, your kit is likely to receive only 500 milliamps (500mA) of power, which is 1/6 the necessary power.

  5. As shown in the first photo for this step, you will begin installation of your light kit with the parts included in Box 1. There will be three pink bags inside your Box 1:
    • As shown in the first photo for this step, you will begin installation of your light kit with the parts included in Box 1.

    • There will be three pink bags inside your Box 1:

    • The green arrow in the second photo for this step points to the bag with the handheld remote control transmitter and receiver.

    • The orange arrow points to the bag with the USB-C power connector and its mounting bracket.

    • The blue arrow points to the bag with the connecting parts for the light strips.

    • You will begin installation with the parts in the USB-C power connector bag (orange arrow).

  6. The first photo for this step shows the parts included in the USB-C power connector bag. The second photo for this step shows a close-up view of the USB-C power connector bracket, which is made using LEGO parts and a 3D-printed element holding the USB-C plug in place. The third photo for this step shows the barrel plug at the other end of the USB-C power connector.  This is the plug that connects to the main controller.
    • The first photo for this step shows the parts included in the USB-C power connector bag.

    • The second photo for this step shows a close-up view of the USB-C power connector bracket, which is made using LEGO parts and a 3D-printed element holding the USB-C plug in place.

    • The third photo for this step shows the barrel plug at the other end of the USB-C power connector. This is the plug that connects to the main controller.

  7. Begin your installation by removing the top sections of your Eiffel Tower and placing the base section on a firm, flat surface with plenty of space around the tower to allow it to be rotated during installation. It is a good idea to have the original LEGO instructions for your Eiffel Tower handy during installation of your light kit.  In case any parts come off or if sections of your tower need to be re-built, having the instructions handy will help. You will pick which "foot" of your Eiffel Tower will be the location where the USB-C power input connector is mounted.
    • Begin your installation by removing the top sections of your Eiffel Tower and placing the base section on a firm, flat surface with plenty of space around the tower to allow it to be rotated during installation.

    • It is a good idea to have the original LEGO instructions for your Eiffel Tower handy during installation of your light kit. In case any parts come off or if sections of your tower need to be re-built, having the instructions handy will help.

    • You will pick which "foot" of your Eiffel Tower will be the location where the USB-C power input connector is mounted.

    • The yellow circle in the first photo for this step shows one of the yellow elevator pieces, indicating we will begin our installation with this "foot" of the tower.

    • The yellow arrow in the first photo shows the location where the USB-C power input connector will be mounted.

    • As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully turn over the base of your tower and place it on your work table. The structure should be stable enough to allow the entire assembly to be flipped over without coming apart.

    • If possible, have someone else help support the base as you flip it over.

    • As shown in the third photo for this step, use the LEGO brick separator that came with your set to pry off the large black plate on the bottom of the "foot" where you will mount the USB-C power input connector.

  8. As shown in the first photo for this step, fully remove the large bottom base plate from its foot. As shown by the blue arrow in the second photo for this step, remove the black 1x6 brick from the front of the foot assembly. As shown by the orange arrow in the third photo for this step, place the 1x6 brick you just removed in the center of the interior of the foot.
    • As shown in the first photo for this step, fully remove the large bottom base plate from its foot.

    • As shown by the blue arrow in the second photo for this step, remove the black 1x6 brick from the front of the foot assembly.

    • As shown by the orange arrow in the third photo for this step, place the 1x6 brick you just removed in the center of the interior of the foot.

    • When replacing the 1x6 brick, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose. It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the 1x6 brick with your other hand.

  9. As shown by the green arrow in the first photo for this step, remove another 1x6 black brick, this time from the left side of the foot base. As shown by the yellow arrow in the second photo for this step, place the 1x6 brick you just removed in the center of the foot base. When replacing the 1x6 brick, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose.  It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the 1x6 brick with your other hand.
    • As shown by the green arrow in the first photo for this step, remove another 1x6 black brick, this time from the left side of the foot base.

    • As shown by the yellow arrow in the second photo for this step, place the 1x6 brick you just removed in the center of the foot base.

    • When replacing the 1x6 brick, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose. It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the 1x6 brick with your other hand.

    • As shown by the two purple rectangles in the third photo, there should now be two 1x6 openings in your base.

  10. As shown by the photos for this step, insert the 1x6 connector bracket in the area where you removed the first 1x6 black brick. When placing the connector bracket, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose.  It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the bracket with your other hand. When placing the connector bracket, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose.  It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the bracket with your other hand.
    • As shown by the photos for this step, insert the 1x6 connector bracket in the area where you removed the first 1x6 black brick.

    • When placing the connector bracket, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose. It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the bracket with your other hand.

  11. As shown by the orange rectangle in the first photo for this step, attach the 1x2 black brick with hole and power wire at the top of the base opening. As shown by the green arrow in the first photo, take the black 1x4 brick provided with your Brickstuff kit and place it in the gap next to the power cable. The second and third photos for this step show how the power input connector and wire should look when you are done.
    • As shown by the orange rectangle in the first photo for this step, attach the 1x2 black brick with hole and power wire at the top of the base opening.

    • As shown by the green arrow in the first photo, take the black 1x4 brick provided with your Brickstuff kit and place it in the gap next to the power cable.

    • The second and third photos for this step show how the power input connector and wire should look when you are done.

  12. As shown by the yellow rectangle in the first photo for this step, there is a 1x2 blue brick that may have remained attached to the large black base plate when you removed it.  You can re-attach this blue brick in the location shown, next to the power wire. As shown in the second and third photos for this step, carefully re-attach the large black base plate to the tower. When replacing the large plate, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose.  It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the plate with your other hand.
    • As shown by the yellow rectangle in the first photo for this step, there is a 1x2 blue brick that may have remained attached to the large black base plate when you removed it. You can re-attach this blue brick in the location shown, next to the power wire.

    • As shown in the second and third photos for this step, carefully re-attach the large black base plate to the tower.

    • When replacing the large plate, be careful not to press too hard and cause the top side of the tower frame to come loose. It is a good idea to support the top side of the foot with one hand while pressing down on the plate with your other hand.

    • Make sure all edges of the large base plate are firmly re-attached.

  13. CAREFULLY turn your Eiffel Tower base back to its upright position. If possible, have someone else help support the base as you flip it over. As shown in the first photo for this step, you will now have the power supply cable with barrel connector coming out of the base.
    • CAREFULLY turn your Eiffel Tower base back to its upright position.

    • If possible, have someone else help support the base as you flip it over.

    • As shown in the first photo for this step, you will now have the power supply cable with barrel connector coming out of the base.

    • As shown by the yellow arrows in the second photo for this step, carefully pass the power supply cable up through the center of the Eiffel Tower support leg toward the top of the base.

    • As shown in the third photo for this step, pull the power supply cable out the top of the support leg. Be careful not to pull the cable too hard.

    • If you need help pulling the cable up, you can use the wire-routing tweezers included with your Brickstuff kit to reach inside and pull upward.

  14. As shown in the first photo for this step, you will now connect the main controller, which is supplied in a large pink bag labeled "MAIN CONTROLLER." Remove the main controller from its bag. The second photo for this step shows the top of the main controller.  Note that four colored wires are attached to the white terminal blocks on the top right edge of the controller board.
    • As shown in the first photo for this step, you will now connect the main controller, which is supplied in a large pink bag labeled "MAIN CONTROLLER."

    • Remove the main controller from its bag.

    • The second photo for this step shows the top of the main controller. Note that four colored wires are attached to the white terminal blocks on the top right edge of the controller board.

    • As shown by the orange arrow in the third photo for this step, the main plug for the power supply cable is located on the bottom side of the board.

  15. Before proceeding with your installation, check that the four wires connected to the main controller board are firmly inserted into the white terminal blocks, as shown in the first photo for this step. As shown in the second photo for this step, the wires are connected to specific outputs on the main controller. The blue wire is connected to the "PIX2" output.
    • Before proceeding with your installation, check that the four wires connected to the main controller board are firmly inserted into the white terminal blocks, as shown in the first photo for this step.

    • As shown in the second photo for this step, the wires are connected to specific outputs on the main controller.

    • The blue wire is connected to the "PIX2" output.

    • The red wire is connected to the "5V" output.

    • The green wire is connected to the "PIX1" output.

    • The black wire is connected to the "GND" output.

    • If any wires ever become loose or pull out of the terminal block connectors, you can re-insert them by pressing down on the top tab of the terminal block with the tip of the tweezers included with your kit, then inserting the wire fully. The wire should then be held firmly in place.

    • The four purple arrows in the third photo for this step show the tabs on top of each terminal block where you can press while re-inserting any loose or disconnected wire.

  16. Also inside the large pink bag with the main controller will be six LEGO parts, which you will use to mount the controller inside the base of your Eiffel Tower. Note that the color of the parts included with your kit may be different from the colors shown in these photos. As shown in the second and third photos for this step, prepare the two short black axle parts by attaching one round bushing piece to the top of each axle.
    • Also inside the large pink bag with the main controller will be six LEGO parts, which you will use to mount the controller inside the base of your Eiffel Tower.

    • Note that the color of the parts included with your kit may be different from the colors shown in these photos.

    • As shown in the second and third photos for this step, prepare the two short black axle parts by attaching one round bushing piece to the top of each axle.

    • Make sure the round bushing pieces are flush with the tops of each axle as shown by the green arrows in the third photo.

  17. As shown in the photos for this step, take your main controller and connect the barrel plug from the power supply cable to the power input on the bottom of the controller board. Make sure the barrel plug is firmly and fully inserted into the socket on the main controller board.
    • As shown in the photos for this step, take your main controller and connect the barrel plug from the power supply cable to the power input on the bottom of the controller board.

    • Make sure the barrel plug is firmly and fully inserted into the socket on the main controller board.

  18. Position the main controller in the corner of the tower base as shown in the first photo for this step. The main controller is specially designed to fit in the corner of the top of the tower base-- make sure it is positioned as shown in the first photo. As shown in the second photo, press one of the axle pieces down through the hole in the main controller and through the opening in the LEGO fence piece in the tower frame below the controller.
    • Position the main controller in the corner of the tower base as shown in the first photo for this step.

    • The main controller is specially designed to fit in the corner of the top of the tower base-- make sure it is positioned as shown in the first photo.

    • As shown in the second photo, press one of the axle pieces down through the hole in the main controller and through the opening in the LEGO fence piece in the tower frame below the controller.

    • As shown in the third photo for this step, place the second axle piece directly next to the first.

    • The main controller board has many holes, but you must mount the two axle pieces only in the holes shown. Do not insert any parts into any of the holes shown by a red "X" in the third photo. Any parts placed in any of these holes will prevent the middle tower section from sitting flat on the bottom base.

  19. As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, carefully press the remaining two round bushing pieces onto the bottom of the black axle parts.  Press down from the top while pressing up from the bottom to make sure the top and bottom bushings hold the board tightly in place. Your main controller should now look like the second photo for this step: firmly held in place in the top corner of your tower base.
    • As shown by the yellow arrows in the first photo for this step, carefully press the remaining two round bushing pieces onto the bottom of the black axle parts. Press down from the top while pressing up from the bottom to make sure the top and bottom bushings hold the board tightly in place.

    • Your main controller should now look like the second photo for this step: firmly held in place in the top corner of your tower base.

  20. Open the pink bag from Box 1 with the handheld remote control transmitter and receiver.  The green arrow in the first photo for this step shows the receiver board with coiled wire antenna. As shown in the second photo, carefully press the pins on the bottom side of the receiver board into the black connector on the top of the controller board. There are seven pins on the receiver.  As you insert it into the black connector (which has seven holes), make sure the pins are aligned to the holes.  Do not force or bend any pins.
    • Open the pink bag from Box 1 with the handheld remote control transmitter and receiver. The green arrow in the first photo for this step shows the receiver board with coiled wire antenna.

    • As shown in the second photo, carefully press the pins on the bottom side of the receiver board into the black connector on the top of the controller board.

    • There are seven pins on the receiver. As you insert it into the black connector (which has seven holes), make sure the pins are aligned to the holes. Do not force or bend any pins.

    • As shown by the blue circle in the second photo, make sure you insert the receiver board with its antenna facing to the right.

    • As shown in the third photo for this step, carefully press from both the top and bottom of the receiver board to fully insert it into its connector on the main controller.

  21. As shown by the green arrow in the photo for this step, carefully bend the antenna wire slightly so it runs parallel to the inner edge of the tower frame, away from the receiver board.
    • As shown by the green arrow in the photo for this step, carefully bend the antenna wire slightly so it runs parallel to the inner edge of the tower frame, away from the receiver board.

    • Make sure to keep the antenna out of the area shown by the red rectangle-- this will ensure the middle tower section fits on top without crushing the antenna wire.

  22. You can now begin preparing the first set of eight light strips, for installation in the base level of your Eiffel Tower. Your Brickstuff kit includes a clear plastic bag with sticky dots and tweezers inside, as shown in the photos for this step.
    • You can now begin preparing the first set of eight light strips, for installation in the base level of your Eiffel Tower.

    • Your Brickstuff kit includes a clear plastic bag with sticky dots and tweezers inside, as shown in the photos for this step.

    • The orange rectangle in the second photo shows two sheets of small sticky dots. You will use the tweezers to attach these to the back side of all light strips used in this kit-- this will allow the strips to be easily attached to the frame of the tower.

  23. As shown in the first photo for this step, you will open the bag of 13-LED light strips next. Do not tear this bag open-- use a pair of scissors to cut the top open, taking care to avoid cutting any light strips or LED lights. There are 16 light strips in this bag.  You will use eight of them for the tower base level.
    • As shown in the first photo for this step, you will open the bag of 13-LED light strips next.

    • Do not tear this bag open-- use a pair of scissors to cut the top open, taking care to avoid cutting any light strips or LED lights.

    • There are 16 light strips in this bag. You will use eight of them for the tower base level.

    • The second photo shows the light strips-- note that there is a plug on one end, as shown by the green arrow.

    • As shown by the yellow rectangle in the third photo, you can always identify the type of light strip you are working with by looking at label on the front of each strip.

  24. As shown in the photos for this step, use your tweezers to attach four sticky dots to the back of each of the eight 13-LED light strips you will use for the base tower level. Use only four sticky dots per light strip, spacing them evenly along the length of each strip as shown in the third photo.  Your Brickstuff kit includes enough sticky dots for all light strips. Use only four sticky dots per light strip, spacing them evenly along the length of each strip as shown in the third photo.  Your Brickstuff kit includes enough sticky dots for all light strips.
    • As shown in the photos for this step, use your tweezers to attach four sticky dots to the back of each of the eight 13-LED light strips you will use for the base tower level.

    • Use only four sticky dots per light strip, spacing them evenly along the length of each strip as shown in the third photo. Your Brickstuff kit includes enough sticky dots for all light strips.

  25. The first photo for this step shows the contents of the third and final pink bag that was included inside Box 1 of your Brickstuff kit. The green box shows the eight short 4-wire cables you will connect to the end of each light strip. The yellow box shows the four adapter boards you will use to create a chain connecting all light strips on this level.
    • The first photo for this step shows the contents of the third and final pink bag that was included inside Box 1 of your Brickstuff kit.

    • The green box shows the eight short 4-wire cables you will connect to the end of each light strip.

    • The yellow box shows the four adapter boards you will use to create a chain connecting all light strips on this level.

    • The blue box shows the 3-wire cables you will use to connect the adapter boards in a loop with the main controller.

    • As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully connect one 4-wire cable to the plug on the end of each light strip.

    • Plugs can be inserted only one way. Do not force plugs. To insert, press with your finger. When a plug is fully inserted, you will feel a soft "click" with your fingernail.

    • As shown in the third photo for this step, you should now have 4-wire cables connected to the end of all eight light strips.

  26. The first photo for this step shows a close-up of one of the adapter boards.  In order for your light kit to work properly, it is essential that you connect cables to the board in the exact order shown in the following steps. The main controller operates each light strip in a directional chain.  As shown by the orange arrow in the first photo, there is a plug labeled INPUT on each adapter.  This is where the incoming control signal wire will be connected. As shown by the blue arrow in the first photo, there is also a plug on each adapter labeled OUTPUT.  This is where the outgoing control signal wire will be connected.
    • The first photo for this step shows a close-up of one of the adapter boards. In order for your light kit to work properly, it is essential that you connect cables to the board in the exact order shown in the following steps.

    • The main controller operates each light strip in a directional chain. As shown by the orange arrow in the first photo, there is a plug labeled INPUT on each adapter. This is where the incoming control signal wire will be connected.

    • As shown by the blue arrow in the first photo, there is also a plug on each adapter labeled OUTPUT. This is where the outgoing control signal wire will be connected.

    • The most common mistake made during installation is mixing up the INPUT and OUTPUT plugs (connecting two INPUTs or two OUTPUTs). Doing so will not damage any lights, but it will prevent lights further down the chain from working. Always make sure to follow the steps in this guide, so you avoid mixing up INPUTs and OUTPUTs.

    • As shown in the second photo, connect the short 4-wire cables to the plugs labeled 1 and 2 on each adapter board.

    • When you have finished connecting all wires, your setup should look like the third photo in this step, with all eight light strips connected in four pairs to the four adapter boards.

  27. Now you will begin connecting the eight light strips in a loop around the base level of your Eiffel Tower.
    • Now you will begin connecting the eight light strips in a loop around the base level of your Eiffel Tower.

    • Study the illustration for this step carefully.

    • Note that each "foot" or pillar of the base is labeled with a letter (A-D), beginning with the location where power is connected and the main controller is located.

    • From pillar "A", you will connect the INPUTs and OUTPUTs of each adapter board in a circle that moves counterclockwise from the main controller, around the base in a loop, and then back to the main controller.

    • The following steps walk you through this process in detail.

  28. As shown by the yellow arrow in the photo for this step, connect one of the 3-wire control cables to the INPUT plug on one of the adapter boards. (you can select any adapter board as the first in the chain)
    • As shown by the yellow arrow in the photo for this step, connect one of the 3-wire control cables to the INPUT plug on one of the adapter boards. (you can select any adapter board as the first in the chain)

    • As shown by the red "X" in the photo, do not connect anything to the OUTPUT plug yet.

  29. As shown by the green circle in the first photo for this step, push the other end of the control cable up through the hole in the main controller next to the plug labeled "LOOP BEGIN". As shown by the blue circle in the second photo, carefully connect the cable to the "LOOP BEGIN" plug on the main controller, making sure the plug is fully inserted.
    • As shown by the green circle in the first photo for this step, push the other end of the control cable up through the hole in the main controller next to the plug labeled "LOOP BEGIN".

    • As shown by the blue circle in the second photo, carefully connect the cable to the "LOOP BEGIN" plug on the main controller, making sure the plug is fully inserted.

  30. The first photo for this step shows how the connections to your first adapter board should look, with the cable connected to the INPUT plug on the adapter running back to the main controller. As shown by the orange circle in the second photo, take a second control cable and connect it to the OUTPUT plug on the adapter board.
    • The first photo for this step shows how the connections to your first adapter board should look, with the cable connected to the INPUT plug on the adapter running back to the main controller.

    • As shown by the orange circle in the second photo, take a second control cable and connect it to the OUTPUT plug on the adapter board.

    • Leave the other end of this second cable unconnected for now.

  31. The illustration in this step shows the arrangement for the two light strips in the first pillar ("A") of the tower.  (you can click on the image to enlarge it if needed)
    • The illustration in this step shows the arrangement for the two light strips in the first pillar ("A") of the tower. (you can click on the image to enlarge it if needed)

    • Note the two numbers (1 and 2) in the light blue circles in the illustration. These numbers correspond to the numbers 1 and 2 on each adapter board.

    • For best visual appearance, it is recommended to install your light strips using the same arrangement of strips 1 and 2 in each pillar.

    • In our diagram, we have strip #1 positioned on the inside edge of the pillar, pointing outward, and strip #2 positioned on the outside edge of the pillar, pointing inward.

    • If this seems confusing now, it will become clear as you go around the base installing the strips in the coming steps.

  32. Begin by removing the backs of the four sticky dots on the first light strip as shown in the first photo for this step. As shown by the orange arrow in the second photo, carefully pass the light strip connected to plug #1 on the adapter board down through the top of the first pillar with its connecting plug at the top of the pillar. Using two fingers, gently press the front and back sides of the pillar to attach the light strip to the pillar.
    • Begin by removing the backs of the four sticky dots on the first light strip as shown in the first photo for this step.

    • As shown by the orange arrow in the second photo, carefully pass the light strip connected to plug #1 on the adapter board down through the top of the first pillar with its connecting plug at the top of the pillar.

    • Using two fingers, gently press the front and back sides of the pillar to attach the light strip to the pillar.

    • The third photo shows the strip mounted to the inside edge of the pillar.

    • Throughout the installation process, you may find it necessary to re-position sections of the tower bracing bars to make room for the LED lights on the strips. Gently move each element up or down as needed to make room for the light strip so it can firmly attach to the flat surface.

  33. As shown in the photos for this step, repeat the same process to slide the second light strip into the pillar interior, then down the pillar to attach to the outer edge, facing inward toward the first light strip. The green arrow in the first photo shows the connecting plug for the second light strip (connected to plug #2 on the adapter board) attached with the plug at the top of the pillar.
    • As shown in the photos for this step, repeat the same process to slide the second light strip into the pillar interior, then down the pillar to attach to the outer edge, facing inward toward the first light strip.

    • The green arrow in the first photo shows the connecting plug for the second light strip (connected to plug #2 on the adapter board) attached with the plug at the top of the pillar.

    • The orange circle in the second photo shows how one of the large cross-brace parts in the tower frame needed to be moved slightly to make room for the LED light on the strip to fit.

  34. As shown in the first photo for this step, you should now have one control wire hanging loose inside your tower base. As shown in the second and third photos, you can gently pull any excess wire from the first control cable up through the hole in the main controller, then coil it up to hide any excess wire. As shown by the green arrow in the third photo, make sure to move all wire to the edge of the main controller.  Keep it away from the row of holes in the main controller board (this is where the middle section of your Eiffel Tower will sit, and this area needs to be clear of wires in order for the middle section to sit flat on top of the base).
    • As shown in the first photo for this step, you should now have one control wire hanging loose inside your tower base.

    • As shown in the second and third photos, you can gently pull any excess wire from the first control cable up through the hole in the main controller, then coil it up to hide any excess wire.

    • As shown by the green arrow in the third photo, make sure to move all wire to the edge of the main controller. Keep it away from the row of holes in the main controller board (this is where the middle section of your Eiffel Tower will sit, and this area needs to be clear of wires in order for the middle section to sit flat on top of the base).

    • Update December 21, 2024: this guide is a work in progress, and we have just released the Eiffel Tower kit. We will be finishing this guide over the next several days, so please check back soon!

Finish Line

Rob K

Member since: 06/18/2012

47 Guides authored

0 Comments

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 1

Past 7 Days: 6

Past 30 Days: 6

All Time: 6