CREATOR Ecto-1 Premium Light and Sound Kit (#10274)

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You will begin installing your Brickstuff kit in the roof section of your Ecto-1.

The roof section is fragile, and is built in two parts. When removing the roof, work slowly, keep your LEGO instruction book handy, and be prepared for parts to come loose. These can easily be re-attached after installing the roof lights.

As shown in the first photo for this step, place your Ecto-1 on a flat surface with plenty of working room around it. Begin by detaching the hoses and tubes as shown by the red circles.

As shown by the orange rectangle in the second photo, carefully detach the black ladder on the side of the vehicle.

As shown by the purple circle and arrow in the third photo, carefully detach the two blue hoses by removing the black Technic axle and pin connector from the black Technic pin on the roof.

As shown in the first and second photos, next you will carefully remove the front and rear lightbars.

As shown in the third photo, remove the large strobe/steering brick along with its axle.

As shown in the first photo, carefully remove the roof radar dish, making sure to also remove the black Technic connector and red Technic axle connected to the radar dish.

As shown in the second photo, remove the radome assembly, including the mounting pillar and small antennas.

The roof of your Ecto-1 is now ready to be removed.

Remember, the Ecto-1 roof was not built to be removed easily, so take your time and remember: parts will fall off, but they can be re-attached later.

Because the roof of the Ecto-1 is built in two sections, you will remove it in two sections, beginning with the rear section.

As shown in the first photo, open the side doors to allow better access to the underside of the roof.

Make sure all hoses, ladders, and tubes have been disconnected from the roof before trying to remove it.

As shown in the second photo, begin loosening the rear roof section by placing your fingers inside the car, under the flat plates that form the bottom of the roof. Press up gently several times to begin loosening the roof.

As shown in the third photo, open the rear door, place your fingers inside and beneath the flat roof section, and gently pressing upward.

As shown by the two green circles in the first photo, it can help to loosen the roof if you press up on the two black arches that anchor the roof to the car body.

As shown in the second photo, you can use the brick separator that came with your LEGO set to loosen the sides of the rear roof section.

Try to keep the windows attached to the main body of the car, so they do not detach with the roof.

As shown in the third photo, you should now have loosened the rear roof section enough so you can slowly but firmly grip it and lift it off.

Several white slope pieces will become detached from the front center of the roof-- this is ok. Keep track of them and set them aside.

As shown in the photo for this step, the rear roof section will not separate without several white slopes detaching. That is ok.

The front roof section is easier to remove than the back section.

As shown by the green arrows in the first photo, you can use your brick separator to gently pry the white slopes free of the top of the front windshield, which will make removing the front roof section easier.

The second photo shows the front roof section being removed after loosening the studs on the top center of the windshield.

The third photo shows the two removed roof sections, along with the extra white pieces that will come detached when the roof is removed.

You are now ready to begin installing the roof lights.

As shown in the first photo, find the large pink bag labeled "Roof Parts" in your Brickstuff kit.

As shown in the second photo, open the large bag and find inside a smaller bag labeled "Blue Roof Lights." This is the bag you will be using first.

As shown by the two lines in the third photo, the lights in the "Blue Roof Lights" bag have two different lengths of wire. In the photo, the red line shows the shorter wires while the blue line shows the longer wires.

In the next steps, you will first use the two lights with longer wires.

Take the front roof section, and as shown in the first photo for this step, remove the large white plate as well as the light bluish gray plate and the first blue light assembly.

As shown by the orange arrows in the first photo, separate the top of the light from the dark bluish gray plate that it attaches to.

The green line in the second photo shows the path the light wires will take once the light has been mounted and re-attached.

Continue preparing the light by removing the back dome as shown in the third photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, continue disassembling the first blue light by separating the 1x2 light bluish gray plate with clip.

As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully place one of the blue LED lights with longer wires on the 1x2 plate, on the side opposite the studs.

As shown by the blue line in the second photo, make sure the LED light is positioned in the center of the plate, and that the LED itself (the small white rectangle) sticks up a small amount beyond the plate. Hold the LED in place with your finger.

As shown in the second photo, the top side of the LED light should be facing you. This is the side of the LED without the wires attached.

Once you have centered the white rectangle of the LED, carefully re-attach the transparent blue round boat stud you detached earlier.

As shown by the red and green circles in the third photo, the LED light should be in the center of the boat stud (green circle), and its wires should not be touching any of the four studs underneath the boat stud (red circles).

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the dome to the back side of the blue light.

As shown by the red arrows in the second photo, pass the LED light wire through the center of the clip below the light.

it is important to make sure the wire passes between the two clip pieces so it does not get caught or pinched.

Finally, as shown in the third photo, re-attach the dark bluish gray plate to the bottom of the light via the clip.

As shown by the green arrow in the third photo, the LED light wire must pass through the center and not be caught or pinched by any part of the clip.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the first blue light to the front roof section.

As shown by the orange arrows in the first photo, make sure the LED light wire runs to the side of the studs behind the light. Wires must never run on top of any studs, or they can get pinched or broken when parts are attached on top of them.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo, re-attach the light bluish gray plate behind the blue light, again being careful to make sure the LED light wire runs to the side of the plate.

Finally, re-attach the large white plate on top as shown by the purple arrows in the third photo.

The green circle shows how the LED light wire should pass through the open channel underneath the white plate and not be pinched or caught on top of any studs.

Follow the same steps you just completed to mount the blue LED light with longer wires in the first blue roof light, and mount a second blue LED light with longer wires inside the second roof light as shown in the photos for this step.

As shown by the orange circles in the second photo, both LED light wires should pass under the large white plates inside the hollow channel underneath the plate, and not be caught on any studs.

Next you will attach the front interior light, which mounts in the center of the bottom side of the front roof section.

Inside your "Roof Parts" bag, there will be three warm white Pico LED lights: two with shorter wires and one with a longer wire. You will use the LED light with the longer wire for this step.

As shown in the first photo for this step, take the warm white Pico LED light with longer wire and attach one of the small sticky squares underneath. The sticky squares will also be found inside your "Roof Parts" bag.

As shown in the second photo, stick the Pico LED light to the center of the bottom side of the front roof section.

Attach the light so its wire passes to the left as shown in the photo.

As shown by the blue circle in the third photo, take the transparent clear round boat stud from the "Roof Parts" bag and use it to hold the LED light wire in place.

When attaching the boat stud, make sure the LED light wires do not touch any of the studs underneath the piece. Make sure the wire passes through the center as shown in the third photo, and that it is not pinched by any studs.

Next you will mount the small dashboard light. Doing this now, while you have the roof removed, reduces the amount of disassembly needed to install your light kit.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the large, transparent windshield part from the Ecto-1 body.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the large light bluish gray plate with the dashboard attached to it.

As shown in the third photo for this step, carefully remove the dashboard section from the light bluish gray plate. The dashboard should now be in one complete section as shown in the photo.

Take the small pink bag labeled "Speedometer Light" out of the larger "Roof Parts" bag, and carefully remove the speedometer light assembly.

This light is extremely small, and has a very thin wire. Be careful when mounting it that none of the parts get pinched between any studs.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the right-side curved slope from above the speedometer.

As shown by the orange arrows in the third photo, carefully pass the speedometer LED light under the dashboard, behind the speedometer tile, and out the top of the dashboard.

As shown by the green arrow in the first photo, carefully pull the LED light wire down from underneath the dashboard until the small light at the end of the wire is positioned just above the speedometer tile.

Carefully bend the wire so the light sticks out a small amount above the speedometer.

The second photo shows the LED light positioned correctly, centered above the speedometer and sticking out just a little.

Make sure the light is facing downward toward the speedometer (although the light is very small, you should be able to see a yellow part opposite where the wires are attached-- this is the "top" of the light, and this "top" part should be pointed down toward the speedometer tile.

As shown by the blue arrows in the third photo for this step, carefully re-attach the black round slope to the top of the dashboard.

As shown by the yellow arrow in the third photo, the little light should be visible just above the speedometer tile after the top slope has been re-attached.

As shown in the first photo for this step, take a brick separator and gently loosen the long black plate under the dashboard, on the side opposite the speedometer.

Once the plate has been loosened, as shown by the orange arrow in the second photo, carefully pass the wire for the speedometer light from the back side of the dashboard through to the front.

It is critical here that you make sure the wire passes between, not on top of, any studs.

Carefully re-attach the black plate so the speedometer light wire is held firmly in place.

The third photo in this step shows the bottom side of the dashboard after the speedometer light wire has been secured. The green dotted line shows how the wire passes along the back, then out through the front and is held in place by the black plate you just loosened and re-attached.

As shown by the orange arrow in the first photo for this step, pass the small plug for the speedometer light through one of the holes in the Technic brick behind the dashboard, on the side opposite the steering wheel.

As shown by the orange arrow in the second photo for this step, pass the wire through the hole and pull it out from the other side, in the area under the hood by the engine.

As shown in the first photo for this step, carefully re-attach the dashboard section, including the light bluish gray plate under the dashboard.

The green arrows in the second photo show how the wire for the speedometer light should pass under the dashboard and through the hole in the Technic brick.

As shown by the orange arrows in the third photo, pass the wire under the engine hoses toward the front of the Ecto-1.

Leave the light wire for now. You will connect it later, after completing installation of the roof lights.

Next you will mount another blue LED light inside the hood spot light. Doing this now, while you have the roof removed, makes installation easier.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the hood spot light and its holding clip.

As shown in the second and third photos for this step, disassemble the hood spot light and detach it from its clip.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the small pink bag labeled "Hood Spot Light" from the "Roof Parts" bag, and position the LED light in the center of the 1x2 plate with clip.

This is the same process you used earlier to mount lights in the two front roof lights.

As shown in the third photo for this step, carefully begin re-assembling the hood spot light, making sure the LED light is in the center and that its wires are not pinched by any studs.

As shown in the photos for this step, finish re-assembling the hood spot light, taking care to make sure the light wire passes between the clip prongs and that the wire is not pinched when the light is re-attached to its bracket.

As shown in the first photo for this step, carefully remove the light bluish gray plate between the dashboard and the hood.

As shown in the second photo, re-attach the hood spot light.

As shown in the third photo, carefully remove the hood and the two plates holding it in place.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the long black plate with silver pieces on top.

The first photo shows one of the silver pieces removed, but your Ecto-1 will still have all silver pieces attached.

As shown by the green arrows in the second photo for this step, run the light wire between the studs of the long black brick and into the engine area.

The orange circle in the second photo shows that you should leave extra slack in the wire. This is necessary so the wire is not pulled when you re-attach the large plate on top of it. Make sure to leave enough extra wire here so the wire does not get pulled when re-attaching the plate on top.

As shown in the third photo, carefully re-attach the long black plate on top of the spot light wire, making sure the wire passes between, not on top of, studs.

The third photo shows one of the silver pieces missing on top of the black plate, but your Ecto-1 will still have all silver pieces attached.

As shown by the blue arrows in the third photo, make sure there is enough extra wire (slack) behind the black plate so the wire will not get pulled when the light bluish gray plate is re-attached in the next step. If you need to loosen the black plate and pull more extra wire through, that is ok.

As shown by the green arrow in the first photo for this step, pass the plug for the hood spot light wire down behind the front wheel of your Ecto-1.

The blue arrows in the second photo for this step show how the wire should run down behind the wheel and out the side.

The orange circle in the third photo shows the hood spot light wire after it has been fully pulled out the side behind the front wheel.

You can leave this wire. You will connect it later, along with the tail lights.

As shown in the first photo for this step, carefully re-attach the hood.

As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully re-attach the light bluish gray plate between the hood and dashboard.

As shown by the yellow circle in the second photo, make sure the plate does not pull on, pinch, or break the spot light wire when you re-attach it.

As shown in the third photo, re-attach the transparent windshield part.

You will now return to working on the roof lights.

Now you will re-attach the front roof section.

As shown in the first photo for this step, carefully re-attach the front roof section. Press down on the front first, re-attaching the roof to the top of the windshield.

After you have re-attached the front to the top of the windshield, press down on the back of the front roof section to re-attach it to the bar behind the seats.

As shown in the second photo, make sure the three light wires (two for the roof lights and one for the front interior light) pass towards the back of the roof section WITHOUT coming close to the hole in the center (shown by the red circle). Wires must be kept away from this hole, or they will be cut when the steering axle is re-inserted.

The front roof section should now be firmly re-attached. The third photo of this step shows the three wires passing out the back without being pinched by any studs, and without passing near the center hole where the steering axle is inserted.

Next, you will mount the large red LED light inside the red roof beacon.

As shown in the photos for this step, remove the large red roof beacon, leaving its black clip still attached to the roof of your Ecto-1.

Disassemble the red beacon like you did with the blue beacons, as shown in the second photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the small pink bag labeled "Red Roof Light" from the "Roof Parts" bag.

As shown in the second photo, place the square red LED in the center of the 1x2 plate.

As shown in the third photo, carefully re-attach the transparent red round boat stud on top of the red LED light.

As with the blue roof lights and hood spot light, make sure the boat stud does not pinch any light wires.

As shown in the first photo for this step, make sure the LED light wire passes between the two parts of the clip.

As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully re-attach the red roof LED light assembly to its clip, making sure the light wire passes through the middle and toward the back without being pinched by any part of the clip.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the white square assembly from the roof to allow the light wires to pass beneath. Set the white square assembly aside for now.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the white 2x4 tile from the roof. This will expose the black plate below, which has holes through which you will pass the LED light wires.

As shown by the red arrows and red circle in the first photo for this step, pass the plug for the red light wire down through the hole in the black plate of the roof assembly.

As shown in the second photo for this step, pull the light wire under the black plate and out into the rear area of the roof.

The blue arrows in the second photo show how the light wire should pass.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the small pink bag labeled "Roof Strobe Light" from the "Roof Parts" bag.

The Roof Strobe Light bag contains three parts: one cool white Pico LED, one transparent round LEGO brick, and one 1x1 round silver LEGO tile. See the second photo.

As shown in the third photo, place the round silver tile on top of the round transparent brick.

The four orange circles in the first photo for this step show the four studs on top of the black roof plate between the red roof light and the silver siren.

Place the cool white Pico LED with the LED side facing up in the center of these four studs, so neither the LED nor the wire touches any of the surrounding studs.

As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully press the transparent round brick down on top of the cool white Pico LED light.

When placing the round transparent brick on top of the LED light, it is critical that no wires pass on top of any studs, or the light will be damaged. Make sure the wires pass between studs.

As shown in the third photo for this step, the LED light wire for the strobe should pass out the back side toward the rear of the roof.

You can now carefully re-attach the white square roof assembly you removed earlier.

Before re-attaching the assembly, make sure all LED light wires are running between, not on top of, studs below the assembly, as shown in the first photo.

The orange circle in the second photo shows some excess (slack) wire for the cool white strobe light. This is needed if you want to mount the LED light inside the larger 2x2 round steering brick later. If you do want to do this, you should leave more slack in the LED wire than is shown in the photo-- at least twice as much.

The third photo in this step shows how the LED light wires for the red roof light and small strobe light will pass under the square roof assembly.

As shown by the red circle in the first photo for this step, you can now pass the light wire for the strobe down through the same hole as the red roof light wire passes.

As shown in the second photo for this step, pull the light wire out from under the bottom of the roof plate.

As shown in the third photo for this step, you should now have wires for two lights coming out the back of the top roof assembly: one red and black wire for the roof strobe and one blue and white wire for the red roof light.

Now you will prepare the rear section of the roof, which is where the lighting control adapter will sit and where all of the roof LED lights will connect.

As shown in the photos for this step, carefully remove the two rear blue roof lights, and then remove the center curved roof slope panel.

When you are finished doing this, your Ecto-1 roof should look like the roof in the third photo for this step.

Inside the "Roof Parts" bag, there is an adapter board labeled "BRANCH09X" on the back. This board has nine small top-facing plugs and two larger side-facing plugs.

There are small numbers printed next to each of the nine top-facing plugs on the BRANCH09X adapter board. In order for your Ecto-1 to function properly, it is critical that you connect each light to the exact numbered plug as described in these instructions.

As shown by the orange arrow in the first photo for this step, connect the wire from the red roof light to plug #5 on the BRANCH09X adapter. This will be the blue/white wire.

As shown by the yellow arrow in the second photo for this step, connect the light from the small roof strobe (the red/black wire) to plug #6 on the BRANCH09X adapter.

Be very careful when connecting lights to the small vertical plugs on these adapter board. Plugs will fit only one way-- do not force them. To connect, align the wire directly above the plug with the wire-side of the plug facing the inside of the adapter, then press straight down with your fingernail to insert.

You will feel a soft "click" when the plug is fully inserted.

Inserting a plug when it is at an angle, or bending the wire while inserting the plug can cause the small connector on the adapter board to break, or to break off. Broken plugs cannot be repaired.

As shown in the first photo for this step, take the two blue LED lights from the "Blue Roof Lights" bag that have the shorter wires, and disassemble both rear blue roof lights as you did with the front two.

As shown in the second and third photos, position the blue LED light in the center of the 1x2 plate, and carefully re-attach the transparent round blue boat stud on top, making sure no light wires are pinched by any studs.

Repeat this process for both rear blue roof lights.

Next you will connect the two rear blue roof lights to the BRANCH09X adapter.

As shown by the orange arrow in the first photo for this step, connect one of the blue roof lights to plug #4 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown by the yellow arrow in the second photo for this step, connect the other blue roof light to plug #3 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

It does not matter which roof light (left or right) connects to plugs #3 and #4.

Inside your "Roof Parts" bag, there should be two more warm white Pico LED lights with shorter cables. These are shown in the first photo for this step.

As shown in the second photo for this step, take two small sticky squares and stick them to the back sides of the two Pico LEDs.

As shown in the third photo for this step, attach one of the LED lights to the center of the underside of the roof. The third photo shows the LED light wire passing off toward the front of the roof-- this is how your LED light should be mounted as well.

The green arrows in the first photo for this step show how you should pass the LED light wire through the center hole in the Technic bricks that support the roof.

As shown in the second photo for this step, pull the LED light wire all the way through the hole. This will provide some strain relief for the LED light and keep it in place.

As shown by the orange circle in the third photo for this step, pass the LED light wire through the top hole in the blue Technic plate at the back of the roof.

Attach the rear interior light as shown in the first photo for this step.

As shown by the green line in the first photo, make sure to attach the rear interior light at least 4 studs behind the front edge of the black roof frame plate. This space is needed to mount the roof motor in a later step.

As shown by the red circle in the second photo for this step, remove the plate assembly holding the side roof slopes in place.

As shown in the third photo for this step, remove the two white roof slopes on the right rear side of the roof.

Next you will connect the two interior lights to the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown by the green arrows in the first photo for this step, route the light wire for the rear interior light around the side of the roof and through one of the holes in the light bluish gray Technic brick on the roof.

As shown by the orange arrow in the second photo for this step, connect the rear interior light to plug #9 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown by the yellow arrow in the third photo for this step, connect the center interior light to plug #8 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

Next, you will connect the red, 3-wire control cable that will run from the roof down to the bottom of the Ecto-1.

As shown in the first photo for this step, take the red 3-wire cable out of the "Roof Parts" bag.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo for this step, connect either end of the red wire to the plug on the BRANCH09X adapter that is labeled INPUT.

Do not connect the red wire to the OUTPUT plug on the BRANCH09X adapter. Leave this plug empty.

To prepare for routing the red wire, remove the white slope piece as shown in the third photo for this step.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the yellow round 1x1 LEGO plate from the roof.

As shown by the green arrows in the second photo for this step, lay the red wire between the studs of the Technic brick and bracket.

Make sure the wire runs between, not on top of, any studs.

As shown by the orange line in the first photo, leave some extra red wire between the BRANCH09X adapter board and the roof brick.

Finally, as shown in the third photo for this step, carefully re-attach the 1x1 round yellow LEGO plate. This will hold the red wire in place.

When re-attaching the yellow plate, make sure it does not pinch the red wire.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the white slope on top of the Technic brick and yellow plate that holds the red wire in place.

The second photo in this step shows how the red wire should pass-- between studs, not pinched.

As shown in the third photo for this step, carefully re-attach the white roof edge slope.

The orange arrow in the third photo shows a notch in the side of the slope-- this is where both the red control wire and the wire for the rear interior light should pass through.

As shown in the first photo for this step, carefully re-attach the large white edge slope on top of the smaller slope.

The roof will be fragile until the end of this step, so don't press too hard on the roof slopes.

As shown in the second photo, carefully re-attach the plate bracket that supports the roof edge. This will make the roof stable again. Press up on this support at the same time you press down on the white roof slopes to secure everything in place.

The third photo for this step shows how the wires and parts should be configured after you have re-attached all roof edge parts.

Next, you will prepare and mount the roof motor.

Inside your Brickstuff kit box, there will be a pink bag labeled "Roof Motor." Take the parts out of that bag. You should have the parts shown in the second photo for this step.

As shown in the third photo for this step, connect the two red 1x2 LEGO plates together.

As shown by the blue arrow in the first photo for this step, attach the two 1x2 red plates to the end of the motor closest to the white axle.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo for this step, attach one of the red 1x2 LEGO bricks to the motor on the opposite end as the plates.

Attach the second red 1x2 LEGO brick on top of the first one, as shown in the third photo for this step.

Finally, as shown in the photos for this step, attach one of the dark bluish gray gears on top of the white motor axle. Press the gear all the way down so it covers the white axle.

Your motor should now look like the motor in the second photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-insert the roof radar assembly.

Be careful not to pinch any wires when re-inserting the axle. As shown in the first photo, make sure all wires pass on the outside of the axle-- do not let them get pinched between the gears.

The second photo for this step shows the bottom side of the re-inserted axle.

Take the other dark bluish gray gear from the "Roof Motor" bag and attach it to the end of the roof radar axle.

Make sure the gear is fully pressed onto the axle.

As shown in the photos for this step, remove the vertical interior axle that used to make the roof radar dish rotate. You will no longer need this, as the roof assembly will now be controlled by the motor.

Next you will route the three light wires from the front roof section back toward the BRANCH09X adapter in the rear.

As shown in the first photo for this step, make sure the three light wires coming from the front roof section are straight, and also that they are not close to the hole in the center of the roof (where the steering axle goes).

As shown by the green arrows in the second photo, turn the rear roof section upside down and route the three light wires through the holes in the Technic bricks under the roof, back toward the rear.

As shown by the orange arrow in the third photo for this step, pass all three light wires through the same hole as you passed the wire for the center interior light earlier.

The hole will be getting crowded as you pass the wires through-- you will have a total of four wires passing through in the end. Pass one wire at a time, and go slowly. You can use a toothpick to gently push a plug through the hole if it gets stuck.

As shown by the green arrows in the photo for this step, make sure the wires are not stuck in the gear. It is critical that the roof radar be able to rotate freely without catching any of the wires.

As shown in the first photo for this step, attach the roof motor so its gear meshes with the gear of the roof radar.

As shown by the green arrows in the second photo, make sure the two gears mesh together, so the motor will turn the roof radar.

The purple arrows in the second photo show how the light wires are kept away from the gears by the red bricks of the roof motor.

The third photo for this step shows how everything should look with all of the light wires routed and the roof motor attached.

Now you will re-attach the rear roof section to the main body of the Ecto-1.

Carefully turn the rear roof section right-side up again and place it on top of the vehicle. Do not re-attach the roof yet.

The green circle in the first photo for this step shows the three light wires coming from the front roof section. Carefully pull these as you re-position the roof. You want to make sure there is no slack hanging down inside the car, or loose wires that could get caught in the gears.

As shown in the second and third photos for this step, move the rear roof section fully back into place, and attach to the front section.

As shown by the two blue rectangles in the first photo for this step, finish re-attaching the rear roof section by re-connecting the two black arches at the far rear of the Ecto-1.

Make sure no wires are pinched between any of the supporting roof parts.

As shown in the second photo for this step, you should have two wires extending down from the roof: the red 3-wire control cable and the thicker red/black motor wire. Pull both wires so they come out the back of the Ecto-1.

As shown in the third photo for this step, double-check to make sure all wires on the roof pass next to the gears, not between them.

Next, you will connect the three front lights to the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown in the first photo for this step, you should have three wires coming from the front of the Ecto-1 roof all the way to the back: two blue/white wires and one red/black wire.

As shown by the green arrows in the first photo for this step, connect the two front blue lights (with blue/white wires) to plugs #1 and #2 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

It does not matter which front blue light connects to plug #1 and which connects to plug #2.

As shown by the yellow arrow in the third photo for this step, connect the interior front light (red/black wire) to plug #7 on the BRANCH09X adapter.

All nine small plugs on the BRANCH09X adapter board should now be connected.

Position the BRANCH09X adapter board in the space behind the roof gears as shown in the first photo for this step.

As shown by the two red circles in the first photo, position the adapter so the two large plugs are on top, pointing toward the center of the Ecto-1. This is necessary to allow the center sloped roof panel to fit.

As shown by the green arrows in the second photo for this step, re-attach the two rear blue roof lights, making sure the wires for their lights pass between the clip fingers and that the wires are not pinched.

Also as shown in the second photo, coil up excess light wires so everything will fit under the center roof panel, which you will attach in the next step.

As shown by the pink arrows in the third photo for this step, make sure as you coil up extra wire that all wires pass to the outer side of the roof gears, and that no wires are loose or able to become caught by the gears when the roof radar rotates.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the large white plate from the white roof slope.

As shown in the second photo for this step, carefully and slowly slip the white roof slope between the two blue roof lights, working at an angle, until the white slope is centered and can be put back into place.

Press down on the white roof slope to fit it back into place. As shown by the pink line in the third photo, check again to make sure all wires pass along the outside of the roof gears.

Nothing will be holding the white roof slope in place at this point, so it will be loose. That is ok.

As shown in the first photo for this step, re-attach the white plate on top of the white roof slope. This will secure the white roof slope into place once again.

The second photo for this step shows the white plate re-attached, and holding all roof pieces in place.

Before proceeding, check one last time to make sure no wires are close enough to any gears to get caught.

Now you will begin work on the two roof lightbars.

As shown in the photos for this step, open the box with the two pre-assembled lightbars inside.

Take the lightbars out of their pink bags.

Note: each lightbar has been assembled and tested in our offices. Do not under any circumstances try to disassemble the lightbars-- they are extremely fragile, and have been glued together. Damage to any lightbar by attempted disassembly will void your warranty.

For each of the two lightbars, you will follow this same procedure to prepare them for mounting.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the 20 pieces shown from each of the original lightbars that came with your LEGO set.

Remove 16 transparent 1x1 dark blue "cheese slopes"

Remove the two 2x2 light bluish gray slopes with printed lines from the top center of each lightbar.

Remove the two 1x2 light bluish gray slopes from the side center of each lightbar.

As shown by the eight orange arrows in the second photo for this step, re-attach the eight 1x1 "cheese slope" pieces to one side of the Brickstuff pre-assembled lightbar.

As shown by the red arrow in the second photo, re-attach one of the 1x2 slopes in the side center location.

Repeat this process for the other side of the lightbar.

As shown by the orange rectangle in the first photo for this step, one side of the lightbar will have a "T" shaped flexible circuit board with wires attached.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo for this step, attach one of the top 2x2 slopes with printed lines on the side opposite the "T" shaped part.

As shown by the orange arrows in the third photo for this step, carefully bend the "T" shaped piece so it stands up.

Also as shown in the third photo, carefully bend the three wires connected to the "T" shaped part back down.

These steps are very important so your lightbar can be fully re-assembled without damaging the fragile electronics inside. Be careful when bending the "T' shaped part, and also when bending the wires. Do not make sharp bends.

The orange circle in the first photo of this step shows another angle of the "T" shaped part bent upward, and the three wires bent downward.

This step is critical. Carefully place the remaining 2x2 slope on top of the "T" shaped piece so the "T" shaped piece fits up into the back side of the slope part, behind the center hollow tube underneath. The green arrows in the second photo show where the "T" shaped part should be inserted.

As shown in the third photo for this step, gently press down on the 2x2 slope to secure it in place.

Make sure when you press down on the slope that the three wires come out between the studs, not on top of them.

Repeat these steps for the second lightbar as well.

For the lightbar you plan to use at the front of your Ecto-1, complete the additional steps shown here to move the control wires off to the side of center.

This is necessary to prevent the wires from getting caught in the steering mechanism.

As shown by the orange circle and orange rectangle in the first photo, remove the center 1x2 slope and the 1x1 "cheese slope" immediately to the right of center.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo, route the wire around the side and around the studs, then down.

Make sure all wires pass around, not on top of, any studs.

As shown in the third photo for this step, re-attach the two pieces you removed. These should hold the control wires in place with the wire passing to the right of center as shown.

If you do not want to use the steering axle to control steering on your Ecto-1, you can skip this step.

If you do want to use the steering axle, you will need to re-insert it now and make sure it does not break any of the front light wires.

As shown by the red arrow in the first photo for this step, carefully and slowly re-insert the steering axle, feeling for anything preventing the axle from inserting all the way.

If you do feel something preventing the axle from fully inserting, stop. It may be one of the three front light wires caught under the axle. Try and move any wires that may be blocking the axle.

In case any of the front lights are damaged during installation, your kit includes one extra warm white Pico LED light and one blue LED light. These are contained in your kit in the small pink "Extra Parts" bag.

The red circle in the second photo shows where wires could potentially get caught and damaged if you did not take up all of the extra slack when mounting them earlier.

Once you have fully inserted the steering axle, turn it several times and make sure the wheels on your Ecto-1 turn, as shown by the green arrows in the third photo.

If, like us when we took the photos for this installation guide, you forgot to re-attach the white 2x4 tile on the roof, you can do that now, as shown in the first photo for this step.

As shown in the second and third photos for this step, you can then re-attach the two long white slopes that connect the front and back roof sections.

As shown in the first and second photos for this step, finish re-attaching any other parts to the roof that may have come off during disassembly.

You should now have the roof fully re-assembled, and the two front lightbar mounts should be in place (see the two orange arrows in the third photo).

As shown in the first photo for this step, carefully attach the front lightbar.

Remember, this is the lightbar with the wire you moved to the right side so it would not get caught in the steering axle.

The second photo for this step shows the front lightbar attached, with its control wire passing to the side.

As shown by the orange arrows in the third photo for this step, you want to weave the control wires around the bricks holding the top section of the roof.

As shown in the third photo, a pair of tweezers can be very useful here.

You need to weave the control wire around the side of the roof supports to keep it away from the center, which is where the gears and arms rotate to move the roof scanners.

As shown by the blue arrows in the first photo for this step, continue weaving the lightbar control wire along the edge of the roof supports until the wire reaches the rear of the roof.

As shown by the orange circle in the second photo for this step, you will now pass the control wire and its plug down through the hole in the blue plate on the roof.

Because there are other wires already passing here, you may need to use a toothpick to gently press the lightbar wire through the hole and down into the inside of the Ecto-1.

The green arrows in the third photo show the lightbar wire coming through the roof and down into the interior of the Ecto-1.

As shown in the first photo for this step, you should be able to pull the lightbar control wire fully out of the back of the Ecto-1, pulling the wire tight on the roof.

The orange arrows in the second photo show the lightbar wire running along the edge of the roof supports, then down through the hole.

Make sure the wire is not close to any gears or parts that move.

The third photo is a final check showing the lightbar wire running along the edge of the roof supports, pulled tight.

Now you will route the control wire for the rear lightbar.

Take the rear lightbar wire (first photo) and pass it down through the same hole as the wire for the front lightbar, as shown by the green circle in the second photo.

This hole will now be getting crowded with wires, so you will likely need to use tweezers or your toothpick again (as in the third photo) to gently push the wire down through the roof. It can help to try passing the plug sideways, or at a different angle, to find a passage through the hole.

As shown in the first photo for this step, the rear lightbar must be attached to the Ecto-1 roof with the wire side facing BACKWARDS, toward the back of the car. In this way, it is positioned in the same orientation as the front lightbar. This is needed so the effects and patterns on both lightbars are synchronized.

The red arrow in the first photo for this step shows the rear lightbar mounted with the control wire on the BACK side, and with the wire passing beneath the lightbar.

As shown by the orange rectangle in the second photo, check one more time to make sure all wires are positioned away from any gears or elements that move.

As shown by the green arrows in the third photo, the control wire for the rear lightbar should now pass out through the back of the Ecto-1 along with three other wires: the control wire for the front lightbar, the red control wire for the roof lights, and the thick red/black wire for the roof motor.

Now you will connect the roof lights to the main effects controller and test the functions and lights using the remote control.

As shown in the first photo for this step, open up the box inside your kit labeled "Controller and Remote." Inside you will find the white remote transmitter and the main effects controller.

Take the main controller and turn it over, as shown in the second photo. There should be a green circuit board plugged into the main controller with 11 pins.

Make sure the green circuit board is fully plugged into its socket. The second photo shows what the green board should look like when fully connected. The third photo shows how the board should NOT look, connected only halfway.

If necessary, press down on the top edge of the green board (by the silver oval part) to fully insert the board into the socket, so it looks like the setup in the second photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, take the two lightbar control wires and compare lengths. One wire will be shorter (as shown by the green circle in the first photo) and the other wire will be longer (as shown by the blue circle).

The shorter wire is for the front lightbar, and the longer wire is for the rear lightbar.

Beginning with the shorter wire (front lightbar) carefully connect this wire to the top-facing plug labeled "FRONT LIGHTBAR" on the main controller board as shown in the second photo.

Be extremely careful when inserting plugs. Make sure you only insert plugs by pressing straight down, with your finger on top of the plug as shown in the second photo. You will feel a soft "click" when the plug is fully inserted.

After you have connected the front lightbar, connect the rear lightbar as shown in the third photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, connect the red control wire from the roof to the plug labeled "ROOF LIGHTS" on the main controller.

As shown by the pink rectangle in the second photo, next connect the roof motor plug to the main controller.

It does not matter which way you connect the roof motor. Connecting with the black wire on top will make the motor spin in one direction, or you can reverse the connection to make the motor spin in the other direction.

Finally, take the USB cable from your kit box and connect the smaller end to the plug labeled "POWER IN" on the main controller as shown by the green rectangle in the third photo.

Connect the other end of the USB cable to a power source like a USB battery bank or an iPhone charger. Turn on your USB power source. As shown by the green arrow in the third photo, the small green LED light on the main controller should turn on, indicating that power is active.

Finally, test the remote control by pressing any button on the remote transmitter, as shown in the first photo.

The red arrow in the first photo points to the red LED light on the transmitter. Whenever you press a button on the remote, this light should turn on (it is off in the photo).

When you press a button on the remote, a blue LED light on the main controller should turn on, as shown by the blue rectangle in the second photo.

Sometimes the remote will not work if it is too close to the main controller. If you are not seeing the blue LED light turn on but the green power light is on, try moving the remote away from the main controller and pressing a button again.

If your green power light is on, if all wires are connected as described in earlier steps, and if you see the blue LED light turn on when you press a button on the remote transmitter, you are ready for the light test.

If you are not seeing the green power light turn on, check your power connections and make sure your USB power source (iPhone charger, etc.) is plugged in and turned on.

If you are not seeing the blue light turn on when you press a button on the remote, check the back of the controller board to make sure the green circuit board is fully inserted into its 11-pin socket.

Now you will test the roof lights. Click to view the video.

When performing the tests, it is important to understand the difference between a "short" button press (less than one second) and a "long " button press (2 seconds or longer). Most of the buttons on the remote have dual functions: one is activated with a short press and the other with a long press.

Follow the steps shown in the video:

Long press, button 1: roof lights should turn on. Make sure all four blue roof lights are pulsing, that the red roof light is pulsing, that the roof strobe is flashing, and that both lightbars are working.

Short press, button 1: changes the patterns for the lights inside the lightbars. There are four different lightbar patterns.

Long press, button 1: turns roof lights off again.

Now you will test the roof motor. Click to view the video.

As shown in the video, each short press of button #5 on the remote will turn the roof motor on or off.

When the motor is on, check the following:

Both the roof radar and roof scanner are moving.

No gears are binding.

No wires are getting caught up in any gears or moving parts.

If all of your lights and the motor are working properly, you can continue with installation.

If any lights or the motor are not working, double-check your connections, your power source, and that the blue LED light on the main controller turns on when you press the remote buttons. If you still need assistance, send an e-mail to support@brickstuff.com.

If all tests worked, you can carefully disconnect all wires from the main controller.

Carefully but firmly, hold each of the lightbar control wires and pull UP to disconnect them from the controller. Remember to only pull straight up, and not at an angle, or you will break the plugs.

Remove the roof light red control wire by pinching the white tabs on the plug, and pulling out of the connector by holding the plug. Do not pull this part by its wire.

Carefully slide the motor plug off to disconnect.

Remove the power wire by pinching the white tabs on the plug, and pulling out of the connector by holding the plug. Do not pull this part by its wire.

When you have finished disconnecting wires, your main controller should look like the photo for this step.

Once you've verified that all of the roof lights and the roof motor are working, you can re-attach the various hoses and the ladder you removed at the start of the installation process.

The three photos in this step show some of the parts to re-connect and re-attach.

The first photo for this step shows the last hose part to re-attach.

The radome part is shown in the second photo. Do not re-attach this part now, as you will still need to turn your Ecto-1 on its side in future steps. You can save the radome to be attached at the very end.

Next you will work on mounting the headlights.

As shown in the three photos for this step, carefully remove the entire front grill assembly. Make sure the entire piece comes out, including the black pieces behind the grille that hold the two grille strobe lights.

When you are finished, your Ecto-1 should look like the third photo.

As shown in the first photo for this step, remove the two top headlight assemblies, including the two white 2x4 plates behind the headlights.

As shown in the second photo for this step, remove the silver and transparent pieces from the white plates, so the headlights are fully disassembled.