LEGO® Hogwarts Castle Light + Sound Kit Installation Guide v1.0

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In the "Dozuki" application, which is available for download from the Apple App Store and various Android and Google marketplaces.

If you view this guide in the Dozuki app, search for "Brickstuff" the first time you open the app, then select "Product Guides" from the categories listed under Brickstuff. Scroll down to find this guide.

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As shown in the first photo, it is very important to look at the color of the wires for the lights in this kit.

Lights with red and black wires can be connected to any adapter their plugs will fit into.

Lights with blue and white wires can ONLY be connected to either a BRANCH09 or BRANCH09X adapter board. Connecting a light with blue and white wires to any other adapter board (including other adapters where the plugs fit) will destroy the light.

The second photo is a visual reference for the controllers and adapter boards included with your kit. You may want to print a copy to reference as you walk through the instructions. You can download a PDF copy of this illustration here.

Here are some other very important tips to keep in mind as you connect the parts in this kit:

Plugs connect to adapter boards and controllers only one way. Do not force plugs.

Do not remove plugs with tabs by pulling on the wire. Always use your fingernails or tweezers to remove plugs by pulling on the tabs of the plug, not the wires.

Many boards have connectors that face vertically (upward). Use extra care when connecting or disconnecting plugs to these connectors. Pulling or pushing sideways on any vertically-facing plug can cause the plug to come detached from its circuit board.

Before starting to install the lights, separate your Hogwarts castle into its two halves. You will install lights into the "Great Hall" half of the castle first.

At multiple points during the installation, you will be working with your castle set on its side, so you can access the large spaces beneath the rock elements. This is where the majority of wires will run in the first section.

As shown in the first photo, carefully remove the top section from the large tower. This will make it easier to rest the castle on its side in later steps.

As shown in the photo (red arrows), make sure the top part of the tower removes cleanly, with all dark tan parts still attached to the underside of the top section.

As shown in the photos for this step, carefully remove the top parts of the boathouse. This is where you will begin your installation.

Take the bag labeled "Dock Torches" from your kit box, and carefully remove the two replacement torch parts.

The wires on the dock torch lights are extremely thin, and they can easily become tangled. If this happens, carefully un-tangle the wires, being careful not to pull. Pulling can damage the lights.

Install the two replacement dock lights as shown in the second photo.

As shown in the third photo by the blue line, carefully run the thin wires next to the studs on the dark tan plate.

Whenever you are running wires, be very careful to run them along the side of studs, or between studs. Never run wires on top of or over studs-- doing so will cause the wires to become pinched or cut when you snap parts on top of the wires.

As shown in the photos for this step, carefully re-attach the boathouse parts, being careful to keep the wires along side of the studs when you snap parts on top of them.

As shown by the red arrows, the thin wires should extend out the back of the boathouse. Here again, make sure the wires run between the studs on the dark bluish gray plate in back when you snap the tan parts back on top of it.

At the end of this step, you should have a re-assembled boathouse as shown in the third photo.

This is the first of several times you will be laying your castle on its side.

Make sure you are working in a large enough space to allow the full castle to be laid on its side without any side or top parts hitting anything in your work area.

While tilting the castle backwards, you can hold the backside with your hand to help ease it onto your work surface. To minimize the chance of damage, move the castle slowly.

If anything breaks or any parts come loose, it is a good idea to keep the original LEGO® installation instructions nearby.

After you have tilted your castle on its side and rested it on your work surface, it should look like the example in the photo.

As shown in the photos for this step, carefully feed the boathouse wires through the holes in the Technic bricks at the base of the castle. The plugs are small enough that they will fit through the holes.

As shown in the second and third photo, wrap the wires several times around the light bluish gray brick close to the rear of the castle. This provides tension relief and helps keep the wires from scraping when you move your castle.

An important part of success in installing this light kit is making sure the wires that run underneath the castle are protected from scraping between the bottom of the castle and the surface you place it on after installing the light kit. If any wires scrape, they are more likely to break or cause a short circuit over time.

Note that, due to supply chain availability at the time your kit was manufactured, your kit may include 24" red 3-wire cables instead of 12" cables. If your kit has wires longer than 12", follow the instructions as usual but coil up any excess wire inside your Castle.

Remove the BRANCH09X adapter board from Bag 1, along with the two 3-wire connecting cables (the longer 12" cable will be red, but the shorter 1.5" cable may be black or red). Make sure to use 3-wire cables and not 2-wire cables. 2-Wire plugs will fit into 3-wire sockets but will not operate correctly.

As shown in the first photo, connect the RED 12" 3-wire connecting cable to the INPUT plug on the BRANCH09X adapter, and connect the short 1.5" 3-wire connecting cable (RED or BLACK) to the OUTPUT plug.

As shown in the second photo, connect the two boathouse light wires to outputs #1 and #2 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

It is critical that you pay close attention to which output plug you connect each light. If the lights are not connected exactly as shown in this guide, they will not operate correctly.

As shown in the third photo, thread the red wire through the gap in the wall as shown by the green arrow. The cable should pass through the gap and out through the rear of the castle.

To prepare for installation of the four main hall torches, remove the torches that came with your LEGO® set as shown in the first photo.

As shown in the second and third photo, remove the brown benches and also the brown tile in front of the raised chairs (blue arrows in the third photo).

Remove Bag 5 from your Brickstuff kit. This bag contains four replacement torches with lights pre-mounted.

Carefully remove the four torches from the bag and make sure the wires are not tangled.

The light wires are very thin and easily tangled. If you need to un-tangle any wires, do so carefully, making sure not to pull on the wires. Pulling on the wires could cause the lights to come detached from the torches.

Note that the wires connecting to the torches may be different colors than the wires shown in the photos here. your wires may also be thicker. That is ok.

As shown in the third photo, carefully route the wire for the first torch down the wall and next to (not on top of) the stud closest to the wall as shown by the red circle in the third photo.

Make sure to leave a little extra wire along the wall running up to the torch. When you snap the LEGO® parts back on top of the wires, they will pull down a bit. Without a little slack, there is a chance the lights will be pulled from the torch when you re-attach parts in later steps.

As shown in the first photo, re-attach the LEGO® plate on top of the first torch light wire.

As shown in the second photo, run the wire from the first torch near the second torch, then run the wires from the first three torches toward the outer edge of the hall as shown by the red arrows in the second photo.

As shown in the third photo, carefully re-attach one of the brown benches on top of the wires for the first three torches.

As shown in the first photo, run the wire from the fourth torch down the wall as you did for the first three torches.

Remember to leave a little extra slack in the wire along the wall so the light won't be pulled from the torch when you re-attach the benches.

As shown in the second photo, re-attach the second brown bench and gather all four light wires along the left side of the row of benches as shown by the red arrows.

As shown in the third photo, carefully re-attach the second row of benches.

When re-attaching the brown benches, make sure the light wires run between, not on top of, the brown studs on the floor.

As shown in the first photo, carefully re-attach the third row of brown benches.

As shown in the second photo, gather the wires to the left of the last row of benches.

Carefully re-attach the last row of benches. When you are done, the wires should run as shown in the third photo.

The four wires from your torches should now look like the torches in the first photo.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo, feed the four torch light wires into the gap in the wall below the main hall.

If you carefully lift the castle, you should see the four torch wires extending out the bottom as shown by the green circle in the third photo.

As shown by the red circle in the first photo, feed the four torch light wires through one of the holes in the light bluish gray brick at the base of the castle.

As shown in the second photo, wind the four torch light wires several times through the holes in the Technic brick so there is little slack left.

Remember, it is important that wires do not scrape between the bottom base and the surface you will mount your castle on. If wires scrape between the castle base and the surface below, wires will become damaged over time.

As shown by the four red arrows in the third photo, connect the four hall torches to plugs #3,4,5, and 6 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

It does not matter which order the four torch wires are connected to the BRANCH09X adapter board, as long as they are connected to plugs 3,4,5, and 6.

Remove the "Green LEDs Bag" from Bag 1, and remove one of the green lights from the bag.

Keep the other green light inside the "Green LEDs Bag" so you don't confuse it with the other lights. You will use the second green light in a later step.

As shown in the second and third photos, use one of the small sticky squares in Bag 1 to attach the green light to the area in the Chamber of Secrets above the snake.

Remove the two cool white lights from Bag 1 and use two small sticky squares to attach them to the left and right sides of the green light as shown in the second photo.

The green arrow in the second photo shows the position of the green light, and the two blue arrows show the position of the two cool white lights.

As shown in the third photo, tie the ends of the wires for the two cool white lights together. This will help identify them when you connect them in the next step.

As shown by the red arrows in the first photo, feed the wires for the three lights in the Chamber of Secrets into the opening at the left.

As shown by the red circles in the second and third photos, use one of the large sticky squares from Bag 1 to hold the three light wires to the top of the open space under the castle.

As shown by the green arrow in the first photo, connect the wire for the green light to plug #9 on the BRANC09X adapter board.

As shown by the two blue arrows in the second photo, connect the wires for the two cool white lights to plugs #7 and #8 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

You can tell the wires for the two cool white lights because you tied them together in the previous step.

Make sure no light wires scrape between the bottom castle base and the surface you mount the castle on. If there is any slack in wires, coil them around the Technic bricks inside the castle base so no wires hang down to scrape.

Remove the master controller board from Bag 1. The controller, labeled TRUNK08 on the bottom side, is shown in the first photo.

The controller included with your kit may have fewer connecting plugs installed than the one shown in the photo. This will not affect the operation of your set.

As shown in the second photo, you should have one red 3-wire connecting cable extending out the back of the castle.

As shown by the red circle in the third photo, connect the red cable to the plug labeled "PIXEL" on the TRUNK08 main control board.

Bag 2 in your kit contains one 4-button remote control and a pre-wired remote receiver module.

As shown by the two red arrows in the second photo, connect the power cable from the remote receiver (2-wire red/black wire) and the 4-wire remote control cable to the plugs on the TRUNK08 main control board as shown.

Take the USB power cable from your kit and connect the power wire to the TRUNK08 main control board as shown by the green arrow in the third photo.

Connect the USB cable to a power source. The green power light on the TRUNK08 main control board should turn on.

If the green power light not come on, double-check to make sure all plugs are fully inserted.

Once connected to power, the lights you have connected so far should turn on and begin running their effects automatically. The video in this step shows how the effects should look.

If the effects are different from those shown in the video, you may have connected lights to the BRANCH09X adapter board in the wrong order. Go back and check the lighting connections and compare to earlier steps in this guide to make sure the lights are connected to the correct plugs on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

If your lights do not look and operate as shown in the video, do not continue installation. Double-check all connections, and if lights still do not work, contact us at support@brickstuff.com for further assistance.

Remove Bag 7 from your kit. Bag 7 will contain the parts needed to mount the lights inside the eight windows of the main tower, and also parts needed to start mounting lights in the top of the tower.

Carefully remove the parts from Bag 7, making sure not to tangle any wires (or to carefully un-tangle any wires that may have become tangled).

The second photo shows the parts from Bag 7 that you will use first.

As shown in the third photo, carefully remove the side panels from the main tower.

Your kit includes eight warm white lights pre-mounted inside tan 1x2 LEGO® jumper plates. You can choose to mount these lights randomly in windows in any of the tower panels.

To mount each light, use a LEGO® brick separator to remove the parts surrounding the already-installed windows in your castle.

Next, as shown in the second photo, make sure each pre-mounted light is flat against the top of the jumper stud.

Remove the transparent dark clear plate from the window in your LEGO® set and carefully attach it on top of the stud with the pre-mounted light as shown in the third photo.

For best results, do not install lights in the top row of windows in any tower section. Installing lights too high up may make their wires too short to reach to the connecting point in future steps.

If you later find a wire is too short to reach its adapter board, you can remove the tower section with the high window and re-mount it one or two levels lower.

As shown in the first photo, carefully re-attach the pre-lit window by running the wire to one side and to the top of the light, then re-attaching to the main tower structure.

When re-attaching the window, make sure the light wire runs next to and not on top of studs.

Re-attach the tower pieces that surround the window, so it looks just like it did before you took it apart.

Repeat this process for each tower window you want to replace with a pre-lit window.

After mounting the eight windows, you will have tower panels like the one shown in the third photo, with wires extending to one side and all other pieces re-attached.

There should be three warm white Pico LEDs with 12" cables and three transparent LEGO "boat stud" parts inside Bag 7. You will use these to mount lights on the ceiling of each of the three staircase sections as shown in the first photo.

Use the "boat stud" parts to hold the Pico LEDs in place as shown in the first photo. When attaching the LEDs, make sure they face downward.

As shown in the second photo, pull the LED wires out through the back of the staircase section.

As shown in the third photo, make sure the wires for the three staircase lights run up the tower toward the top. This will be the opposite of the eight window lights, whose wires will run down into the base of the castle.

Remove one of the BRANCH09X adapter boards from Bag 7, and as shown in the first photo, connect one of the 24" three-wire connecting cables (RED OR BLACK) in Bag 7 to the INPUT connector on the BRANCH09X adapter.

Note that the 3-wire connecting cables shown in this guide are black, but the wires included with your kit may be red instead. The cables work identically.

As shown in the second photo, thread the wires for the three staircase lights under the round brick at the top of the tower. This will hold the wires in place.

As shown by the arrows in the third photo, connect the three stairway lights to plugs #1, #2, and #3 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown in the first photo, carefully remove the long side panel of the castle tower. Make sure the entire panel comes off, all the way down to the pink plate as shown.

With the side panel removed, the tower will be more fragile than normal. Be careful not to tip your castle when the panel is removed, or the tower could fall over.

As shown in the second photo, you should have your BRANCH09X adapter board with the three staircase lights connected to plugs #1, #2, and #3, and with the 24" 3-wire connecting cable plugged into the INPUT plug (green arrow).

Make sure your 24" 3-wire connecting cable is plugged into the INPUT plug on the BRANCH09X adapter as shown by the green arrow, not the OUTPUT plug as shown by the red 'X'.

As shown in the third photo, carefully run the 3-wire connecting cable down the side of the tower and down through the hole at the base of the tower, as shown by the green arrow.

Thread the cable down through this hole so it feeds down to the underside of the castle base. You may need to feel around with the wire several times before it will feed cleanly through into the base.

The 3-wire cable should be fully fed into the castle base with just enough slack to reach the BRANCH09X adapter board at the top of the tower.

Remove the second 24" 3-wire connecting cable (this may be BLACK or RED) from Bag 7, and connect it to the OUTPUT plug on the BRANCH09X adapter board as shown in the first photo (green arrow).

As shown in the second photo, make sure all wires from the top of the tower feed through the space under the round tan brick as shown by the blue circles. This will hold the cables in place.

If needed, you can remove the round tan brick at the top of the tower in order to feed the cables through the space underneath.

When feeding cables, make sure they all run through the space under the brick, not between the brick and any studs below. This could pinch the wire.

Run the 3-wire connecting cable down the side of the tower so it sits near the base as shown in the third photo.

Unlike the INPUT cable (blue arrow in the third photo), this OUTPUT cable (green arrow) will not feed under the castle base but will instead hang loose.

As shown in the first photo carefully re-attach the long tower panel.

Make sure none of the wires covered by the long tower panel are pinched between any studs. This is especially critical at the tower base, where there is a large side-facing plate. If wires get pinched, they can break.

Once you have completely re-attached the tower side panel, you should have the 3-wire OUTPUT connecting cable extending outside of the castle as shown in the second photo.

Remember, the 3-wire connecting cables shown in this guide are black, but the wires included with your kit may be red instead. The cables work identically.

Next you will run the wires from the eight window lights DOWN into the space beneath the castle.

Carefully re-attach the panels you removed in Step 22, beginning with the two narrow panels.

When re-attaching each panel, be careful that wires do not become pinched by any studs behind the panels. Route the wires to the side of each panel and make sure no wires are pinched between studs.

As shown by the green circle in the second photo, carefully feed each light wire through the hole at the base of the tower. Push the wire all the way into the hole so there is as little slack above the ground level as possible.

Lights that are mounted toward the top of a tower section may just barely reach the connection point underneath the castle. For this reason, make sure wires have as little slack as possible after feeding through the hole shown in the second photo.

Repeat this process for the two narrow side panels, and do the center (larger) panel last.

The center panel will be more difficult to attach than the others. As shown in the third photo, feed the wires down into the hole in the base of the castle, then carefully re-attach the last panel.

After re-attaching the last panel, check around the tower to make sure no wires are showing.

Carefully turn your castle on its side and lay it on a soft, flat surface.

As shown in the first photo, gather the eight wires from the window lights that you fed down from the tower in the previous step.

It may be difficult to locate all eight wires. When you fed the wires down into the castle base in the previous step, some wires may have gotten stuck. If you can't locate all eight wires, use a flashlight and tweezers to search up inside the base of the castle until you have located all eight wires.

If any wires are too short to reach, you will need to check back under the window panels above to see if there was excess slack in any of the wires. If all wires are pulled tight but still do not reach, you may need to re-locate the window light for any short wires one or two levels lower in the tower panel (refer to Steps 26-27).

Take the second BRANCH09X adapter board from Bag 7 and connect the eight window light wires to plugs #2 through #9 on the adapter board.

Do not connect any window lights to plug #1 on the BRANCH09X adapter. You will use this plug for another light later. If you connect a window light to plug #1, the effects will not work properly.

After you have connected all eight window lights to the BRANCH09X adapter board in the previous step, take the 24" 3-black (or red) connecting cable you fed down into the castle base in Step 30 and connect it to the OUTPUT plug of the BRANCH09X adapter board, as shown by the green arrow in the first photo.

Make sure you are connecting the 3-wire cable you fed down into the base in Step 27, NOT the cable you left hanging outside the castle in Step 32.

Make sure you connect the 3-wire cable to the OUTPUT plug on the BRANCH09X adapter board, NOT the INPUT plug.

Next, locate the first BRANCH09X adapter board you connected in Step 10. This is the adapter board with the short 1.5" 3-wire red or black cable connected to the OUTPUT plug. (see the board in the second photo)

Connect the other end of the short 3-wire red or black connecting cable to the INPUT plug of the BRANCH09X adapter board that has the eight window lights connected to it.

After connecting the two BRANCH09X adapter boards, your setup should look like the connections in the third photo.

The first BRANCH09X adapter board (with the blue wires connected to it) should have a 12" RED cable connected to the INPUT plug and the short 1.5" red or black cable connected to the OUTPUT plug.

The second BRANCH09X adapter should have the other end of the short 1.5" red or black cable connected to its INPUT plug, and should have the 24" black cable from the top of the tower connected to its OUTPUT plug.

Take the second green LED from Bag 1 (inside the smaller bag labeled "Green LEDs") and attach a small sticky square to the back as shown in the first photo.

Feed the LED wire through the small gap in the base of the tower as shown by the blue arrow in the second photo.

As shown by the red circle in the third photo, mount the green LED to the BACK side of the plate above the door at the base of the tower.

As shown by the green arrows in the first photo, connect the green LED to plug #1 (the last available plug) on the BRANCH09X adapter board with the window lights connected to it.

Using two sticky squares from Bag 1, carefully mount the first BRANCH09X adapter board inside the base of the castle as shown in the second photo.

As shown in the third photo, tuck all remaining wires along with the second BRANCH09X adapter board up into the same space as the first BRNACH09X adapter board.

Make sure that no wires are hanging below the base of the castle. Any wires left hanging will rub against the LEGO base plates and the surface you use to display your castle, causing the wires to break over time.

If your kit includes a sound module, you can complete the next few steps to install the speaker. If your kit does not include a sound module, you can skip ahead to the next main section.

Take the speaker and carefully remove it from its cardboard box.

Inside Bag 7, there should be two squares of double-stick tape (see the second photo). You will use these to mount the speaker inside the base of the castle.

Note that the tape squares included with your kit may look different than the ones shown in the photo. That is ok.

As shown in the third photo, stick one of the double-stick tape squares to the back of the speaker in preparation for mounting. (You can save the extra square in case you need to move or re-mount the speaker in the future)

As shown in the first two photos, carefully insert the speaker facing upward into the space beneath the castle. Gently press the speaker down so it sticks firmly to the two dark bluish gray plates as shown in the second photo.

As shown by the red arrows in the third photo, carefully feed the speaker cable around and through the base of the castle, so the speaker cable passes through the same gap in the castle base as the 3-wire red connecting cable you ran in Step 7.

The plug for the speaker should hang out the back side of the castle.

Make sure the speaker wire does not pass under the bottom of the castle base, where it will rub against the surface you place your castle on.

If your kit includes color-changing spotlights, now is a good time to mount the first five of them since your castle is already on its side with the bottom exposed. There should be a total of 10 spotlights in Bag 11 in your kit.

Inside Bag 11, there should be a special cable approximately 36" in length. As shown in the first photo, this cable has a small connector on one end (red arrow) and a larger connector on the other end (blue arrow). Both connectors have three wires.

Bag 11 should also contain two BRANCH17 adapter boards. These have large plugs on either end and five smaller plugs in the middle of the board. As shown by the blue arrow in the second photo, connect the end of the cable with the larger plug to the end connector on the BRANCH17 adapter board labeled "IN".

Note that the BRANCH17 adapter boards included with your kit may have side-facing connectors instead of the top-facing connectors shown in the photos here. That is ok-- both designs of the board work identically.

Take five of the color-changing spotlights from Bag 11 and connect them to the five plugs labeled "RGB1" through "RGB5" on the BRANCH17 adapter board as shown by the orange arrows in the first photo.

You should also have one 24" black or red 3-wire connecting cable in Bag 11. As shown in the second photo, connect one end to the plug labeled "OUT" on the BRANCH17 adapter board.

As shown in the third photo, take two sticky squares from Bag 11 and attach them to the backside of the BRANCH17 adapter board.

Now that you have the five spotlights connected to the BRANCH17 adapter board, use the sticky squares to mount the adapter along the long white brick under the castle, next to the speaker as shown in the first photo.

As shown in the second photo, take the small connector from the wire connected to the "IN" plug on the BRANCH17 adapter board and the large connector on the wire connected to the "OUT" plug, and run both wires under the castle and out the back as shown in the third photo.

The blue arrows in the third photo show the path the two wires should take, under the castle and out the back.

Now you can attach the five spotlights to the castle base. It's up to you where to mount them-- in general the lights should be evenly spaced along the front and side edge of the castle base, shining up on the castle.

When you run the spotlight wires, make sure they do not run under any plates-- see the red "X" in the first photo for an example of how not to run the wires. The wires should run above any plates as shown in the second photo so they do not rub against the base when the castle is upright.

When attaching each spotlight around the castle base, make sure to run the wires on top of the bottom plates so no wires run under plates and rub against the base when the castle is upright.

The three photos in this step show various ways to mount the spotlights.

Where you position the spotlights is up to you. You can adjust the spotlights up or down as needed after they have been mounted-- just make sure to leave enough extra wire close to the spotlight to allow it to move up and down.

Carefully re-position your castle so it again sits upright.

There should be two main wires extending through the gap in the center of the castle:

Red 3-wire connecting cable, as shown by the red circle and arrow in the first photo.

Black speaker cable, as shown by the blue circle and arrow in the first photo.

Note that the red wire shown in the second photo should still be connected to the BRANCH08 master controller after you tested the first section of lights in Step 21.

As shown in the second photo, you should still have the three wires connected to the TRUNK08 master controller (USB power, remote control receiver power, and remote control receiver output).

If your kit includes color-changing spotlights, you will also have two extra wires extending through the gap in the center of the castle: the 3-wire cable with the large connector and the red/white/black cable with small connector. These are the wires from the BRANCH17 adapter board for the color-changing spotlights.

As shown in the third photo, take the spotlight wire with the small connector and insert it into the plug labeled "SENS1" on the TRUNK08 main controller.

Make sure the TRUNK08 master controller is connected to power, and the lights should operate as shown in this video clip.

If the staircase lights are not on, you can try pressing and holding the "B" button on the remote control for 2-3 seconds, then releasing. This "long press" on button "B" should turn the interior lights on.

All lights from the first test you completed in Step 24 should also continue to operate correctly when you perform this second test.

Make sure all eight window lights turn on and off at random intervals. It make take up to 90 seconds for all lights to come on, so be patient and make sure all eight lights are cycling on and off.

If your lights do not look and operate as shown in the video, do not continue installation. Double-check all connections, and if lights still do not work, contact us at support@brickstuff.com for further assistance.

Next, you will install the pre-wired lamp post string. As shown in the first photo, remove the 9 lamp posts from your Hogwarts Castle.

The replacement pre-wired lamp post string is contained in Bag 4 (second photo).

As shown in the third photo, carefully unpack the lamp post string and lay it flat, making sure there are no tangles in the wires.

Never pull on any of the lamp post string wires. Doing so can cause a wire to become disconnected from one or more lamp posts. This cannot be repaired.

As shown in the three photos for this step, carefully mount the pre-wired lamp post string. It is ok to press down on the wires as you mount the lamp posts.

Lamp posts should sit straight up after being mounted.

As shown in the second photo, all wires should exit toward the rear of each lamp post. Wires should not be visible from the front.

You can use a tweezers to gently coil up any excess wire so it sits below the railing behind each lamp post. Just do not pull on the wires.

The third photo shows what your lamp post string should look like after mounting. The power wire should hang over the railing at the rear of the castle.

As shown by the green arrow in the first photo, connect the connector from the lamp post string to the plug labeled "OUT1" on the TRUNK08 master controller.

Connect the power to the TRUNK08 master controller, and the lamp post string should turn on.

As shown in the third photo, if the lamp post string does not come on when power is connected, you can press and release the "A" button on the remote control quickly (less than 1 second). This should turn the lamp post string on (a "short press" of the "A" button turns the lamp post string on and off).

If the lamp post string does not light up, double-check to make sure power is connected to both the TRUNK08 controller and also the remote control receiver, and that the lamp post string connector is fully inserted into the OUT1 plug on the TRUNK08 controller.

If your lamp post string lights but one or more individual lights do not light up, your string has become damaged during installation. Contact us to purchase a replacement.

Open Bag 3, which should contain three light strips, two short connecting cables, and one longer black connecting cable.

Note that the color of the connecting cable wires may be different than the wire shown in the photo-- you may have black wires or red/black wires. Also, your wires may be thicker than the wires shown in the photo. That is ok.

As shown in the second photo, connect the light strips end-to-end so a string is created with the longer cable on one end of the string.

As shown in the third photo, test-fit the three light strips in the courtyard.

Do not remove the adhesive backing of the light strips yet.

Begin mounting the light strips with the center strip. Remove the adhesive strip from the back of the center light strip and carefully press it under the dark bluish gray courtyard roof tiles so the light strip sticks to the underside of the center part of the courtyard roof (see the blue arrow).

Mount the other two light strips on either side of the center strip.

As shown in the second photo, remove the roof tile on the end of the courtyard, and feed the long black connecting cable through the window under the roof (see the red arrow).

As shown in the third photo, pull the longer cable all the way through the window so it comes out the rear of the courtyard.

Remember, the color of the wires may be different than the wires shown in the photos-- you may have black wires or red/black wires. Also, your wires may be thicker than the wires shown in the photos. That is ok.

As shown by the green arrow in the first photo, feed the light strip wire along the rear courtyard wall and through the gap between the tower and the main castle.

When feeding the cable, take care to make sure it does not become pinched between the castle and the tower. There should be room for the wire to pass without getting pinched.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo, connect the light strip power cable to the plug on the TRUNK08 master controller labeled "OUT2".

Connect the TRUNK08 board to power. The courtyard lights should turn on. If they do not turn on, you can press and hold the "A" button on the remote control for 2-3 seconds, then release. A "long press" of the "A" button turns the courtyard lights on and off.

Open Bag 6. Inside there should be four lights: three with 6" connecting cables and one with 3" connecting cables (see the second photo for comparison of wire lengths).

Using the two transparent "boat stud" parts included in Bag 6, attach one light with 6" cable and one light with 3" cable to the ceiling in the main hall as shown in the third photo.

The green arrow shows the light with the 6" cable and the blue arrow shows the light with the 3" cable.

When mounting the lights under the "boat stud" parts, make sure they face downward.

Using a LEGO brick separator, carefully separate the roof section from the brown roof braces. This will allow you to run the light wires between the roof and the roof braces.

The second photo shows the results after the light wires have been secured between the roof and roof braces.

Make sure the light wires do not run on top of any studs when re-attaching the roof to the braces. All wires should always run next to or between studs.

As shown in the third photo, connect the two ceiling lights to any two of the four small connectors on the BRANCH15 adapter board included in Bag 6.

It does not matter which two small plugs on the BRANCH15 adapter you connect the lights to.

Take two small sticky squares from Bag 6 and stick them to the back of the BRANCH15 adapter board. You will use these in a later step to mount the BRANCH15 board to the wall.

Next you will disassemble a large portion of the courtyard clock tower so you can mount the remaining two lights with 6" cables. Follow the disassembly steps in the photos.

Although this looks like major disassembly, the sections of the clock tower can be removed while keeping large sections intact. Follow the steps in the photos, and it's always a good idea to have your original LEGO instruction book handy in case you forget where a piece goes during re-assembly.

Continue with the disassembly steps as shown in these photos.

As shown in the third photo, use a LEGO brick separator to remove the bottom 1x2 tan plate from the center arch assembly.

As shown in the first photo, take the 2x2 tan replacement plate from Bag 6 (blue arrow in the photo) and snap the remaining arch assembly parts (red arrow in the photo) on top. The result should look like the second photo.

Attach one of the two remaining lights with 6" cable to the bottom of the 2x2 tan plate using a sticky square as shown in the third photo.

As shown by the red arrow in the third photo, attach the light to the side OPPOSITE the sloped arch assembly.

Carefully re-attach the arch top as shown in the photo. The light should be facing the inside of the arch.

As shown in the first photo, remove the clock and its mounting bracket.

Remove the clock face from its bracket.

As shown in the second photo, insert the last light with 6" cable in the center of the assembly.

The second photo shows the light mounted beneath the dark bluish gray round plates, but you may get better light distribution by placing the light in the center on top of the plates, then carefully re-attaching the clock face directly on top of the light.

Re-attach the clock face. As shown in the third photo, the light wire should extend out the center top of the clock assembly.

Just a little more disassembly, we promise!

After removing the parts shown in the three photos, you should expose a gap as shown by the red arrow in the third photo. This is where you will run the light wires in the next step.

As shown in the first photo, take the wire from the arch assembly, feed it through the gap as shown, and re-attach the dark bluish gray slope piece to hold the wire in place.

The blue arrows in the second photo show how the wire should run.

Make sure the wire runs between the studs under the roof slope piece, and not over the tops of any studs. This can cause the wire to become pinched.

Re-attach the clock bracket as shown in the third photo, and feed its light wire through the same gap as the first wire.

Follow the steps as shown in the photos to re-assemble the clock tower.

When running wires between any parts, make sure the wires pass between, not on top of, any studs.

Continue with re-assembly as shown.

Complete re-assembling the clock tower as shown.

The third photo shows how the wire from the arch light should run.

As shown in the first photo, you should now have two wires extending into the main hall.

Connect the two wires to the two remaining small plugs on the BRANCH15 adapter board as shown in the second photo.

As shown in the third photo, take the 12" connecting cable from Bag 6 and connect it to one of the large plugs on the BRANCH15 adapter board.

It does not matter which large plug on the BRANCH15 adapter you connect the connecting cable to.

Remember, the color of the wires may be different than the wires shown in the photos-- you may have black wires or red/black wires. Also, your wires may be thicker than the wires shown in the photos. That is ok.

As shown in the first photo, use the sticky squares you attached in Step 54 to mount the BRANCH15 adapter board along the wall in the top corner of the main hall.

Coil up any loose wires so they are not hanging down.

using a LEGO brick separator, carefully separate the side roof section from the tan braces as shown in the second photo.

Run the connecting cable between the roof piece and the tan brace pieces, being careful not to pinch the wires over the top of any studs.

As shown by the green arrow in the first photo, connect the cable from the main hall lights to the plug labeled "OUT3" on the TRUNK08 master controller.

Test the lights by connecting power to the TRUNK08 board. The main hall ceiling lights and clock tower lights should turn on.

If these lights do not turn on, try pressing the "B" button on the remote control for less than 1 second as shown in the second photo. This is a "short press" on button "B" and it turns the main hall/clock tower lights on and off.

As shown in the third photo, check to make sure both clock tower lights are operational as well.

Open Bag 8, and remove three of the lights with 12" cables (see the first photo).

As shown in the second and third photos, remove the top of the tower and the section with the three smaller towers attached.

Remove the tops of the three smaller towers as shown in the first photo. Feed the wire from each light down through the center of the tower tops as shown in the second photo.

When you have fed the wire through each tower top, the light should look similar to the light shown in the third photo.

There should be three transparent red round 1x1 LEGO plates in Bag 8. Place one on top of each small tower roof, on top of each light as shown in the first and second photos.

Next, re-attach the topmost small tower as shown in the third photo.

As shown in the first photo by the green arrow, make sure the light wire runs down along the side of the topmost tower with a little extra slack. Also make sure the wires pass BETWEEN the studs on the round piece below.

Continue by attaching the other two towers, each time making sure the light wires run between and not on top of studs.

After re-installing all three small towers, your setup should look like the assembly in the third photo.

As shown in photo, remove pieces from the bottom of the top tower section.

Re-attach the three small rooftop towers.

As shown in the first photo, remove the roof section under the three small towers.

As shown by the green arrow in the second photo, wrap the three light wires from the small towers around the base.

Tie the three rooftop tower light wires together as shown in the third photo. This will make it easier to connect the rooftop lights later.

As shown by the blue circle in the photo, feed the three rooftop light wires down through the gap in the floor next to Dumbledore's office.

As shown in the first photo, take the third light and clear "boat stud" part from Bag 8 and mount the light on the ceiling of Dumbledore's office.

As shown in the second and third photos, route the light wire through the same gap in the floor as the three rooftop tower lights.

Inside Bag 8, there is a small bag with two wall torches inside. Carefully remove the torches and un-tangle their wires if needed.

Remove the existing wall torches and tan wall bricks from below the front of Dumbledore's office.

As shown in the second and third photos, mount the pre-lit wall torches and re-attach the wall section parts you removed earlier.

As shown in the first photo, re-attach the side roof section you removed earlier.

As shown in the second photo, bring the tower top section close to the lower section. You will need to keep the two sections close together while you connect the light wires.

As shown by the two orange arrows in the third photo, connect the two blue and white wires (from the wall torches) to plugs #4 and #5 on the BRANCH09X adapter board. This is the same board you connected the three stairway lights to earlier.

As shown by the red arrow in the first photo, connect the light from Dumbledore's office to plug #6 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown by the three orange arrows in the second photo, connect the three rooftop tower lights to plugs #7, #8, and #9 on the BRANCH09X adapter board. These wires should be tied together in a knot, making them easy to identify.

After all 9 plugs are used up on the BRANCH09X adapter board, tuck the board and all of the light wires into the space beneath Dumbledore's office, as shown in the third photo.

As shown by the red circle in the first photo, re-attach the tan half-circle piece below Dumbledore's office.

There should be two dark tan 1x2 LEGO plates inside Bag 8. Attach them as shown by the green arrows in the second photo.

Finish re-attaching the dark tan parts as shown in the third photo.

Make sure the only wires extending from the bottom of the top tower section are the three LED light wires for the staircase lights and the two 3-wire connecting cables (INPUT and OUTPUT on the BRANCH09X adapter). All other wires should be fully contained and hidden in the space beneath Dumbledore's office.

As shown in the first two photos, carefully yet firmly re-attach the tower top to its base. Tuck as many loose wires as possible up into the top tower section as possible.

Make sure no wires become pinched during re-assembly.

The tower top should firmly attach to the base, and should not be loose. If you are having trouble getting the tower top to firmly attach to the base, check the wires underneath. If there is excess loose wire, this can cause the tower top to fail to attach firmly.

If the tower top does not re-attach firmly, it can fall over, pulling the control and light wires from the tower and likely damaging them.

As shown in the third photo, re-attach the top cone of the tower.

Connect the TRUNK08 master controller to power, and the lights in the tower top should come on as shown in the video.

Note that the three rooftop tower lights turn on and off randomly, so it may take up to 90 seconds for them to come on.

As shown toward the end of the video, if the light in Dumbledore's office does not come on, you can press the "B" button on the remote control for 2-3 seconds ("long press"). This should turn the light on and off.

If your lights do not look and operate as shown in the video, do not continue installation. Double-check all connections, and if lights still do not work, contact us at support@brickstuff.com for further assistance.

Now that you've made it this far, it's time to congratulate yourself!

If you have been working continuously (or relatively continuously) on installing the lights, we recommend that you take a break at this time. Your castle will still be there in the morning!

To make installation easier, you will need to remove the two tall, narrow towers from the rightmost rear section of the castle as shown by the two green arrows in the first photo.

Next, carefully remove the bridge walkway. This large piece should come off in one part.

As shown in the second photo, remove two of the green plant parts from the area behind the Chamber of Keys (shown by the blue arrow).

Open Bag 9, and remove the following items:

One BRANCH09X adapter board (blue arrow in the third photo).

One 12" 3-wire connecting cable (red color cable shown by the red arrow in the third photo).

One 1.5" 3-wire connecting cable (green arrow in the third photo). This wire may be black or red.

One BRANCH05 adapter board (orange arrow in the third photo).

Connect the 12" 3-wire cable to the OUTPUT plug on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

Connect the 1.5" 3-wire cable to the INPUT plug on the BRANCH09X adapter board, then connect the BRANCH05 adapter board to the other end of the 1.5" cable as shown in the second and third photos.

It's time to lay this half of the castle on its side. The second and third photos show two good places to grip the castle as you slowly turn it and lay it flat.

When you are finished, your castle should be oriented as shown in the first photo.

Tip the castle with its front side facing down. Tipping it the other way will result in instability.

Bag 9 has one cool white light and six warm white lights. The first photo shows the difference: warm white lights (red arrow) have white round discs and cool white lights (blue arrow) have black round discs.

As shown in the second photo, attach a small sticky square to the back of the cool white light, and mount it in the center of the ceiling of the Chamber of Keys as shown by the orange arrow.

As shown by the green arrow in the third photo, connect the wire from the Chamber of Keys light to Plug #1 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown in the first photo, take two warm white lights from Bag 9 and attach a small sticky square to the back of each light.

Mount the two lights on the ceiling of the Chessboard Chamber as shown by the red circles in the second photo.

One light should be above the "white" side of the chessboard, and the other light should be above the "black" side of the chessboard.

Run the light wires out toward the BRANCH09X adapter board, passing them through the ceiling arches in each room.

As shown by the two green arrows in the third photo, connect the two light wires to plugs #2 and #3 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

Remove the four flame assemblies from the Mirror of Erisred room as shown in the first photo.

Remove the "Large Flame Pack" bag from Bag 9 (second photo).

Carefully remove the two pre-wired flames from the "Large Flame Pack" bag, un-tangling any wires if they are tangled.

Mount the two pre-lit flames as shown in the third photo.

Remove the two flame pieces from the transparent orange round plates as shown by the red arrows in the first photo.

The "Large Flame Pack" bag should contain two replacement flames with the little pins cut off. See the second photo for an example of the difference between the original part (red arrow) and the Brickstuff-supplied part (blue arrow).

Remove two warm white lights from Bag 9 and position them between studs on the base in the Mirror of Erisred room. The first photo shows an example of one light positioned between the four surrounding studs.

Make sure the light is positioned between the studs, and that its wire extends toward the rear of the Mirror of Erisred room as shown in the first photo.

Carefully replace the round plate and modified flame part on top of each warm white light as shown in the second photo.

Make sure you have replaced the original flame parts with the Brickstuff-supplied flame parts without the small pin. If you try to place a flame with pin still attached on top of the LED, the pin will prevent the part from attaching.

make sure the wire passes out the back, between studs, and that the wire is not pinched by any studs.

When you are finished installing all four replacement flames, your setup should look like the third photo.

As shown in the first photo, feed all four flame wires back through the gap behind the Mirror of Erisred room. Carefully pull all four wires through and out the bottom of the castle base as shown in the third photo.

You may find it helpful to prop your castle up on something while you work, as shown in the second photo. (here we used a camera lens hood, but you can use any similarly-sized object to hold up your castle)

As shown in the first photo, remove the lime green 2x2 plate from the castle base to make room for running the four flame wires.

As shown in the second and third photos, take the four flame wires and carefully run them under the base as shown.

Carefully replace the lime green 2x2 plate as shown in the first photo.

Make sure the four flame wires pass BETWEEN studs under the lime green plate, not over them. If wires become pinched by a stud, they can become damaged and the lights may stop working.

Remove the large triangle plate as shown in the second photo.

As shown by the red circle in the third photo, carefully feed all four flame wires through the holes in the black Technic bricks in the castle base.

As shown in the first and second photo, you should now have all four flame wires running out the side of the castle base.

As shown by the red arrows in the third photo, connect the red and black flame wires to plugs #4 and #6 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown by the blue arrows in the third photo, connect the blue and white flame wires to plugs #5 and #7 on the BRANCH09X adapter board.

As shown in the first photo, remove the large light bluish gray plate under the edge of the castle base.

As shown in the second photo, take the red wire from the BRANCH09X adapter board and run it where you removed the large plate in the previous step.

Carefully re-attach the large plate you removed at the beginning of this step. You will cover the red wire from the BRANCH09X adapter board with the large plate, so be careful when re-attaching it that the wire runs between studs and not over/on top of them.

As shown by the blue line in the third photo, you should leave a small amount of red wire extending beyond the castle base. There should be just enough wire to allow the BRANCH09X adapter board to be inserted into the chamber behind the Chamber of Keys room.

If you leave too much of the red wire extending beyond the castle base, the wire will not be long enough to connect to the next adapter.

As shown in the first photo, run the red wire along the same path as the four flame wires.

As shown by the red circle in the second photo, run the red wire beneath the long dark bluish gray plate under the castle.

As shown in the third photo, carefully re-attach the large triangle shaped plate. As you re-attach the plate, make sure the red wire passes between the studs of the plate, and not on top or over any studs.

Your wire setup should now look like layout in the first photo.

As shown in the second photo, remove the large light bluish gray plate below the dark bluish gray plate that the red wire passes over.

As shown in the third photo, carefully re-attach the light bluish gray plate, passing the red wire between it and the Technic brick above. When re-attaching the plate, make sure that the red wire passes between the studs of the light bluish gray plate, not on top or over any studs.